472 Fulham Road,
Fulham,
London,
SW6 1BY
(020) 7386 2470
The ViewLondon Review
A sympathetic renovation has turned this former tube station into an elegant market with a kitchen. You’ll wander in to admire the architecture and end up staying for lunch.
The Venue
This beautiful glass-roofed hall - a former TGI Friday’s - could not find a better tenant than Union Market, a proudly British classic food shop. A greengrocer selling everything from flat peaches to golden cherry tomatoes is flanked by an artisan bakery, a bespoke butcher, a quality deli, a wine cellar and a dry goods section, all situated in between the old ticket counters of the listed 1905 Fulham Broadway tube station. In the middle, a few long wooden tables and simple benches accommodate customers for breakfast and lunch.
The Atmosphere
The stunning look and excellent quality (as well as affordable prices) of Union Market have a huge pull on office workers and locals alike. The place is very busy for breakfast and lunch, with mothers and friends meeting for tea and mid-morning snacks. Upscale and elegant, Union Market attracts a classy crowd and it’s the type of place where you’ll want to take the time to taste your food. Hedonistically luxurious but far from snobby, the space is friendly and welcoming.
The Food
Seasonal and local, the menu matches the deli counter whenever possible. From the list of starters (£4.50 - £5.75), the chilled tomato soup has the perfect dose of spices with none of the tartness of gazpacho. Grainy and wholesome, it’s clearly very fresh and it comes served with exquisite top-quality pesto. The cock-a-leekie terrine is a good mix of chicken, bacon and leeks although the match with (excellent) chutney is not as successful.
For mains (£7.50 - £12.75), the char grilled rib-eye steak with grilled potatoes is wonderfully tender and flavourful, to the point of making the garlic and parsley butter redundant. The sandwiches (£6) are just as good. The fresh baguette bread, dripping with aromatic oil, is generously stuffed with roast vegetable, rocket and sun-dried tomatoes. Desserts (£4 - £5.50) include a good baked cheesecake and even better poached apricots with clotted cream and homemade shortbread.
The Drink
The emphasis is put in equal measures on quality soft drinks from the likes of Luscombe (£1.95) and Whole Earth (£1.50) and on a selective list of wine (£3.10 - £4.30 for a small glass or £11.20 - £26.60 for a bottle). Children may prefer a raspberry lemonade but adults can enjoy a French Chablis or a surprising La Umbra Merlot from Romania. Beer and cider are also available from £2.75 to £4.75.
The Last Word
Not only will you end up having a wonderful lunch, you’ll also walk out with shopping bags full of fresh produce for you to cook at home.
Union Market Kitchen has been reviewed by 7 users