An Indian tapas-style restaurant in Bayswater, run by a Michelin-starred chef, where age-old cuisine meets modern experimentation.

The Venue
International restaurateur Vineet Bhatia has two Michelin stars to his name, for his London restaurants Zaika and Rasoi, as well as owning restaurants in Moscow, Dubai and Mauritius. Urban Turban, which serves tapas-style Indian street food, is his latest venture, so expectations run high.

The Atmosphere
Being on a corner and glass-fronted, there's plenty of light in the day but at night it gets decidedly darker, on the verge of being too dark. The decor is dark purple, too. There is a central bar and a cluster of modern lights in the middle of the room. It's busy all week—at seven it's relatively calm and then gets busier, and louder, as the evening progresses. As the place gets progressively busier however, cracks start to appear in the service.

The Food
The challenge for Bhatia is to produce food that equals Indian dishes which have been honed not over months, but over centuries. It's suggested you have two starters (all at £5.50 or £6) followed by a main course, which ranges from £5-£12, and sharing is encouraged. The tapas selection includes tilapia (a white freshwater fish) which is not, as advertised, crispy on the outside, but soggy, with the hot chilli crust overpowering the fish. Similarly, while the scallops were soft and tender, they come covered with a tomatoey sauce which is too strong for the delicate seafood. The lentil dumplings are nice and moist in their yoghurt sauce, although there could be more of the crunchy garam flour noodles on top to give it texture. The caponata-style smoked aubergine and pea masala is tastebud-numbingly spicy. The stir-fried cauliflower is a potential winner, but it turns out to be overcooked, the outside was burnt and bitter.

On the plus side the lamb biryani, the sweet Muslim version, is authentic and tasty. It comes in a bowl with a pastry crust on top and with its morsels of rich meat hidden inside. Other mains include a classic rogan josh and a bhuna chicken. The pilau rice is light and fragrant and the rosemary naan is also an example of how experimentation can work — it’s Italy meets India in a successful marriage. The desserts (all £6) look like they would save the day, but the sweet samosas are black on the outside, the soot coming off on your fingers. The chocolate cake is mousse-y and indulgent, but the ginger ice cream is simply too fiery. The star anise ice cream really did work however and is a star turn.

The Drink
Wines range from £16 a bottle upwards and the house red is a plummy 2006 South African Shiraz-Pinotage. The New Zealand 2006 Spy Valley Gewurztraminer is a good, if more expensive, option at £29. Or better still, go for a Cobra beer (£7 for a large bottle) given the spiciness of the food. Otherwise the bar is well-stocked with all manner of soft drinks, spirits and a range of cocktails. There are also enticing lassis which come in blueberry and coconut, mango and strawberry and rose and lychee flavours, all at £ 3.30. You can eat snacks at the bar, too.

The Last Word
Urban Turban is a hit and miss affair. WhiIe some dishes soar, others fall lamentably short. Although it may get there in the end, this version of modern Indian fusion still has a long way to go.

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