It's hard to get off on the wrong foot with a restaurant that goes by the motto 'life is too short to drink bad wine', so it’s really no wonder Vivat Bacchus is packed out most days of the week.

The Venue
Stuck on a corner of noisy Farringdon Street, the original branch (there’s a second in London Bridge) isn’t particularly appealing at first glance. But inside the set-up is straight-forward and refreshingly relaxed, with bare tables laid-out underneath warehouse-style exposed vents.

The Atmosphere
The simple décor also makes this South African-run bar/restaurant very welcoming. It has an easy atmosphere and now pulls in some of Clerkenwell’s media crowd as well as finance types. In contrast to the over-zealous American-style service that's becoming the norm, the knowledgeable front of house team here also have plenty of attitude. Mostly clad in jeans, white shirts and sporting the odd subtle tattoo, they can give as good as they get from any rowdy bankers.

The Food
When it comes to the food, don’t expect too much complexity, just tasty and well-executed dishes. The menu is mostly modern-European, but it’s the regularly changing South African touches – strangely little-seen in London’s high-end restaurants – that make it stand out. They’ve thankfully put their pre-recession days of £1,000 tasting menus behind them, and the prices are now very reasonable for the quality.

From the starters, the grilled calamari (£8.25) accompanied by spicy chorizo and a balsamic-heavy rocket garnish is surprisingly well-balanced, while you get the feeling the full-size rocket salad (£5.75), bulked up with pine nuts, peppers and butternut squash, is a bit of a cursory ‘lower cal’ inclusion. The most intriguing options are on the short list of mains. It’s here that you can expect to see kangaroo and crocodile alongside classics like steak and chicken fricassee. Dive in at the deep end with the magnificent grilled zebra steaks (£18.95), which turn out to be surprisingly tender, combining the consistency of beef with a likeable, subtle flavour. The generous, thick cuts are served medium-rare with floury violette potatoes and roasted-to-bursting cherry tomatoes. On the cheaper side, the springbok burger (£13.50), which comes with chunky sweet potato chips, is also perfectly pink and satisfyingly gamey.

There are deserts on the menu, but you'd be wise to head straight for the little glass cheese room midway down the restaurant. Hidden in this pungent, temperature controlled pantry is an incredible European cheese selection, ranging from nutty, alpine Italians to the tangy Oxford Isis and powerful Barkham Blue. Boards with fruit, biscuits and chutney start at £13.

The Drink
It's hard to know where to begin when it comes to the drinks, though the weekly wine club could probably teach non-oenophiles a thing or two. Bottles start at £17.50 and thanks to the new-world and South African leaning, it’s a more accessible selection than some. The crisp, lightly floral 2010 Knappstein Clare Valley Riesling (£29) is a great choice as an aperitif or with some of the starters. To accompany the red meats, try the enticing 2008 Doolhof Pinotage (£26) from Wellington. It still feels very young with oodles of ripe, dark fruit on the nose (rather like diving into a vat of blackberry jam) combined with a hint of spice and silky tannins. Perhaps one of the most interesting options, however, is the sumptuous 20 year old Ramos Pintos tawny port (£10.50 a glass), which envelopes you in a salty-sweet caramel haze. It’s a perfect match with the cheese.

The Last Word
You might not expect a restaurant serving a combination of fine wine, exotic meats and artisan cheeses to work, but Vivat Bacchus pulls off the combination effortlessly. It’s not the most atmospheric venue, but it is undeniably a winning formula.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (3) image gallery (4)