17 Irving Street,
Leicester Square,
London,
WC2H 7AU
(020) 7839 3737
The ViewLondon Review
Smack bang in the centre of the West End, just off Leicester Square, is perhaps not somewhere you'd expect to find a family business serving freshly cooked Beirut specialities. Yet this is exactly what's on offer at Walima.
The Venue
The restaurant sits next to one of Leicester Square’s most infamous trashy clubs on Irving Street, a road usually full of teenagers stumbling around in stilettos or hordes of tourists jostling to catch a glimpse of the latest premiere in the square. Walima is miles from the well-known mecca of Lebanese restaurants on the Edgeware Road and – bar the shisha pipes outside – it probably won't grab your attention. Inside, the small-ish space, with dark tables and café-style seating, is simple and reasonably bare.
The Atmosphere
In stark contrast to first impressions, however, Walima is actually exceptionally warm and friendly. If you take a minute to chat to the staff (it really is a family venture) they're knowledgeable and interested in their customers. Unusually, they also try to make the effort to personally greet and thank every diner. It's the kind of casual, easy place you'd love to find on your local high street.
The Food
The halal dishes are carefully cooked to order and the portions are absolutely huge. You can easily build a meal from the expansive selection of hot and cold mezze (£4 to £7), or treat them as a starter: dunk some flatbread in the creamy houmus; try the surprisingly moreish fattoush salad, with crispy, flat croutons and aromatic fresh mint; or opt for a generous helping of filling falafel with tahine dip. The jawaneh (chicken wings), served with a potent garlic sauce, are an excellent hot option (if you're not planning to snuggle up in the Odeon afterwards) and the succulent meat comes straight off the bone. The batata harra (a soft, spicy potato dish) works well alongside, and adds a good dose of heat.
As opposed to the veg-heavy mezze, the mains (£12.95 to £16.50) are mostly meaty – though there are some veggie options like aubergine or okra stew. The meat is well-cooked and there’s a seemingly endless supply of flatbread to eat alongside. Many of the dishes are available as a cheaper wrap, too. To get a good selection of what’s on offer, the set menu (£45 for two or £90 for four) is actually very good value. For two, it offers seven mezze, a mixed grill and a small plate of sweet, dense baklava. It’s a varied, interesting meal and you’ll have to arrive hungry to be in with a chance of finishing it.
The Drink
There's no cheap pinot or bargain beer at Walima, but instead a range of wines from Chateau Kefraya, one of Lebanon's largest wineries, alongside basic soft drinks, Lebanese beer and the traditional spirit, arak. £18 for a bottle of the house white, La Dame Blanche, isn’t particularly easy on the wallet, but it’s a very good, light wine with hints of apple and stone fruit.
The Last Word
It's a real shame Walima chose to place itself in prime West End territory, stomping ground of voucher-touters and party-goers. But if you’re looking to get away from bland, predictable restaurants, Walima is just the ticket. It’s simple, genuine and very enjoyable.
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