Gloucester Road isn’t particularly wild or woody, but Wildwood sits very comfortably in this cosmopolitan part of town - it is the perfect place to open the company’s first London restaurant.

The Venue
Wildwood has four venues outside London, two in Essex, one in Herts and one in Kent. Lots of blonde wood and glass shelving give it a bright and contemporary look, without being too brash. There are comfortable chairs just inside the door for waiting diners and leather seating around the booths. The open bar area is attractively stocked and huge bottles of flavoured oils add colour and character.

The Atmosphere
As around half of Wildwood’s custom comes from passing trade, the restaurant’s open and inviting decor couldn’t be more welcoming. Efficient - although not aggressive - table turning means Wildwood is at around three-quarters full all evening, but the tables are just far enough apart to keep the hubbub at a hum rather than a roar.

The Food
Life, they say, is too short to stuff a mushroom. So let Wildwood do it for you. Chunky pieces of Portobello are baked with Gorgonzola cheese, spinach and walnuts - a winning combination and perfect autumn fare (£4.95). It is nicely seasoned, too; dishes with blue cheeses can sometimes be too salty, but the chef neatly avoids that trap. If it’s punchy flavours you’re after, go for the prawns with tomato and chilli sauce (£5.75), which feature four lovely plump prawns with a thick, fiery sauce.

A rib-eye steak (£15.95) is tasty, too, served with a simple salad of watercress and roasted cherry tomatoes and good French fries. It seems a tad stingy to charge an extra £1 for a little dish of Gorgonzola or pepper sauce, but the former is rich and tangy and complements the meat. And Wildwood’s staff are savvy enough that, if one of your party orders the sea bass, which takes an extra 20 minutes, they ensure all mains arrive at the same time. It’s worth the wait, because the bass, served in its own neat silver foil parcel, is superb. It’s not a huge serving, but then at a very reasonable £14.50 for a whole fish, you wouldn’t expect it to be. It’s complemented by herbs, fennel and tomatoes and accompanied by sauteed new potatoes - a truly lovely dish.

Everyone has their own version of tiramisu, and Wildwood’s is among the best of them. A grown-up’s pudding - and a grown-up-sized serving - it has just the right balance of coffee, cream and sweetness. An Eton mess is also generous, served in a sundae glass with a dollop of vanilla ice cream hiding in the middle.

The Drink
Wildwood doesn’t have a mind-numbingly long list of cocktails, just a chosen few, among which is an unusual mandarin mojito and a raspberry Collins - gin or vodka, depending on your preference of poison, with raspberry puree, lime and soda water. The first version of the latter is rather lacking in vodka, but this is quickly remedied - the second version would blow your socks off!

Likewise, the wine list is not overly elaborate. There are eight well-chosen reds and whites to suit every palate and pocket - a Trebbiano at £12.95 is great value - and two roses. Mumm Cordon Rouge NV at £29 is a steal.

The Last Word
Wildwood is fun, friendly and, while it’s not fine dining, you will get good food in a great environment. It lives up to its mission statement.

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