Thanks to the chef's touch and the high quality ingredients at William IV, you will leave satisfied without breaking the bank.

The Venue
The traditional but airy William IV has been open for decades in a pretty Georgian-style house. However, the location is not prominent: Shepherdess Walk is quiet and the pub is set away from the main road, but the remote location translates into an intimate environment. The ground floor is streamlined: wooden panels painted cream, a mix-and-match of old chairs - part school, part pub, part kitchen - a couple of taxidermy displays and a few vintage Chesterfields complete the scene. Upstairs there are two more rooms: one is medium-sized with the same décor, while the other is a private room. With a round antique table, bookshelves and its own Georgian fireplace, this looks like an ideal room for group bookings.

The Atmosphere
William IV may have kept its name over time, but new management has revolutionised the atmosphere. Gone are the large screens; William IV is now a good destination for an intimate lunch, an office meeting, or a pint with a friend. Relaxed and quiet, privacy and personal space are its best assets.

The Food
The level of the cooking is high, while prices are kept at a reasonable level. The concise menu caters for brunch (£4-£8), with kippers and bubble ‘n’ squeak among others; a light lunch of gourmet toasts (£4-£6); high-end bar snacks (£1.50-£4) including oysters and deep-fried whitebait; a selection of pub favourites (£7-£9.50); and the daily changing specials (starters for £5-£6 and mains for £8-£15).

It is hard to go wrong, whatever you choose, but the toasts are particularly recommended: the thyme and roast tomatoes is an absolute bargain with a huge, thick slice of white country bread toasted on a grill and loaded with cooked tomatoes, delicious preserved artichokes, sprigs of thyme and a red wine reduction. The clear winter vegetable and ham hock soup is also good value at £6.

For mains, the pan fried sardines are well cooked (not at all dry) and they come with roasted new potatoes (the bed of shrimps it is served on is not so great). The rib-eye steak is likewise large and cooked well, although the real bonus are the excellent chips. The desserts (£5) are traditional but crafted with a new British spin on them.

The Drink
The list of wines is more than satisfactory, with twenty bottles to pick from (£15-£26), although there are only seven available by the glass (£3.80-£4.80 for a small one or £5-£6 for a large one). The Sicilian Nero D’Avola is recommended for its rich flavour. The beer scenario is also good: pick from Leffe, Becks Vier, Heineken, Hoegaarden, Kronenbourg and three ales on draught (£3.70 a pint on average), or from bottled Budweiser, Moretti, Tiger and Becks (£3.60-£3.70).

The Last Word
William IV successfully combines the relaxed atmosphere of an airy old-fashioned pub with a commitment to seasonal, quality food. Prices are far from exorbitant, too. Well worth a visit, especially if you live or work in the area.

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