238 Roman Road,
Globe Town,
London,
E2 0RY
0872 148 5441
The ViewLondon Review
Four out of
Five Stars
Buried deep in the heart of the East End lurks this oasis of fresh seafood, cockney cheer and cafeteria style informality. Perhaps due to its slightly obscure location, Winkles is not yet attracting the crowds and plaudits it so obviously deserves.
A modern update of the traditional East End seafood restaurant, it offers really fresh fish at affordable prices. Their seafood platter is a special treat, piled high with every imaginable variety of crustacean it dominates the table, forcing diners to peer at each other across a sea of antennae, pincers and discarded shells.
Winkles is a refreshing alternative to the capital’s over-hyped eateries where style dominates substance and staff are either irritatingly unctuous or piercingly cold. This place is part of the local fabric and dedicated to serving the best seafood this side of Walthamstow.
From the moment you perch at their tiny corner bar you know you’re not in Shoreditch anymore. The décor is understated and instead of the usual bar snacks, diners are presented with a pot of winkles. Sadly as much as I admired the authentic touch, not only do they look thoroughly unappetising but are definitely an acquired taste.
Once seated the seaside cafeteria vibe was compounded by the unattractive laminated menus, illustrated with child-like lettering. The wine list was disappointing in size although the choices were well selected and our Chablis partnered our food choices perfectly.
To start I selected the exotic-sounding Thai-style chilli and pepper squid which translated into delicately battered morsels of squid floating on a bed of sweet chilli sauce. Although slightly overpowering it validated its Thai label in the simplest way possible. My partner’s Belgian mussels were beautifully plump and juicy, yet let down by a slightly minimal sauce with just a couple of tiny mushrooms floating in it.
The main courses did not disappoint but did not thrill either. My lump of juicy monkfish was decorated with a thin layer of smoked salmon and surrounded by a creamy pool of sage mash. The flavours complimented perfectly and my only criticism is I was left longing for more.
Unfortunately the fish pie we had both greedily coveted was a bit of a let down. Presented in a plain white pot, it scalded both our tongues and failed to reveal anything more exciting than huge chunks of salmon and whole tiger prawns. Winkles is filled with so much exciting seafood that to not make creative use of it seems a sad waste.
While Winkles far outshines your average east end eaterie, it needs to work harder on generating an atmosphere and menu that matches the sumptuous freshness of the seafood on offer.
Winkles Seafood Restaurant has been reviewed by 2 users