Awarded a Michelin star in 2005 (along with its sister restaurant Hakkasan), Yauatcha delivers a stylish update to the Oriental tea house, serving classic and contemporary dim sum all through the day.

The Venue
Located in the backwaters of Soho, Yauatcha isn't the easiest place to find, but there's no mistaking its sleek blue glass exterior once you arrive. From the outside, you're offered a tantalising glimpse of beautifully crafted single desserts laid out in orderly rows, already signalling a departure from the traditional dim sum experience. On entry, a large ornamental fish tank lines one wall, with the opposite holding shelves of large black tea jars. The ground floor is a chic modern take on the tea house theme, with clean minimalist furnishings and bright lighting. The cavern-like downstairs is populated by turquoise seats, dark wood tables, and branches of cherry blossom throwing mysterious shadows in the low light.

The Atmosphere
Given the sophisticated surroundings, this is dim sum for the discerning diner. During the day, Yauatcha draws crowds of London's young trendy urbanites, taking a break from the nearby Oxford Street shopping. Evening time gives way to small groups and couples, revelling in the buzzy atmosphere. Book a table downstairs to make the most of the moody underground bar/club feeling.

The Food
Served all day, Yauatcha's dim sum is edgy and original, with a contemporary twist applied to old classics with some surprising results. The dim sum dishes mostly fall in the £4 to £10 range, though the wagyu beef cheung fun will set you back £38. The menu scores top marks for cooking, presentation and inventiveness, and is extensive enough to merit more than a few returns. Try the Chilean seabass mooli rolls, baked venison puffs, hand-pulled noodles and Shanghai siew long buns (xiao long bao). The seabass mooli rolls come in three just-larger-than-bite-size portions, with each piece of rich fleshy seabass wrapped in a thin sliver of mooli (a mild japanese radish), in a creamy, lightly salted sauce. The baked venison puffs, again in a traditional set of three, consist of sweet shredded meat encased in mini triangular cases of crumbling puff pastry, sprinkled with sesame seeds.

The desserts are worth a visit alone - the highlight of which is the glass-covered display case at the entrance, filled with rows on rows of gorgeous perfectly-portioned cakes and confectionery. Dark chocolate sponge with yuzu, candy-coloured macaroons, assam-flavoured praline, and raspberries piled in a chocolate casing are just some of the treats on offer. If you don't have space after your meal, you can always get dessert to go, packed in distinctive pastel-coloured mini boxes.

The Drink
As well as offering an extensive list of teas (including varieties of green, black and blue teas from all across East Asia), Yauatcha is known for its legendary tea smoothies. Try the exotic-sounding Pearl Leong, made with guava, mango, orange and oolong tea. As expected from such an establishment, it also boasts a solid wine list, starting from around £25 a bottle, with the majority sitting comfortably around and above the £50 mark. The cocktail menu (all priced under £10) boasts a variety of Asian-inspired cocktails, such as the ginger martini and the Kumquatcha (kumquat, lime, Campari and cachaca).

The Last Word
Playing a classy riff on the traditional dim sum experience, Yauatcha lands firmly on the must-try list for those who enjoy high quality Chinese cuisine in an equally sophisticated setting.

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