Yoshino serves high quality traditional sushi in tranquil surroundings, without the need to break the bank. If you like your sashimi sans celebrities and your menu free from fad, this place will fit the bill.

The Venue
Nestled in an alley off bustling Piccadilly, with only a small neon sign to broadcast its presence, Yoshino enjoys flying under the radar. The restaurant is split over two small floors, with the sushi bar and chef downstairs to greet the guests, and pale yellow leather benches and crisp white-papered tables above. Decor is modern and wood-based, with simplicity overruling the need to impress.

The Atmosphere
A favourite with Japanese businessmen, Yoshino maintains a hushed but relaxed ambience, perfect for a quiet meal with close friends or dinner-a-deux. The predominantly Japanese staff are friendly yet demure. Long windows in the upstairs area give a peaceful airy feel during the day, and in the evenings the warm lighting makes for a cosy, intimate setting.

The Food
Yoshino's main offering is a range of a dozen bento sets, all served in beautiful stacking lacquered boxes, with prices ranging from £5.80 to £29.80. The Yoshino Zen Grilled Fish is particularly excellent value (£9.80), with succulent grilled mackerel, ten small (but thick) slices of tuna, delicately-sculpted portions of potato salad and thinly-sliced pickled cucumber, served with rice and miso soup. The a la carte sashimi and nigiri menu covers all the usual suspects, as well as three grades of tuna and (when available) sea urchin, wild sea bass, and brill. Fish quality is consistently high, despite the very reasonable price list.

The Drink
For a change, why not swap the standard green tea for a steaming cup of genmaicha (brown rice tea), originally drunk by Japanese peasants who would mix roasted brown rice with the tea leaves to save on costs. Four different Japanese beers and a few bottles of wines are on offer, at very reasonable prices.

The Last Word
Providing a breath of fresh air from the usual over-designed celebrity-filled sushi temples, Yoshino proves that simple quality dishes, cooked well without the need for fanfare, can still be a winning formula.

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