A lush Thai palace of a place.

The Venue
Turn off Stoke Newington High Street, away from the KFC, minicab firms and noisy buses into a peaceful courtyard with tinkling fountain, then head up a grand stone staircase and enter the a Grade II listed building that houses Yum Yum, what is without doubt the smartest restaurant in the area. Inside, the large space has been divided up into a small discrete bar area, the main dining area, and a raised wooden platform with tables sunk into it and cushions for seats. The dark carved wood and rich silk wall hangings create a truly luxurious vibe.

The Atmosphere
This place, despite being off the Stoke Newington Church Street circuit, is very popular – booking is a good idea, especially for groups greater than two or on the weekend. But as Yum Yum is so large, the lucky might sneak in on Friday night if they come after 8. Though this restaurant has the hallmark of an upmarket venue, it hasn't lost it fun lively atmosphere and eclectic Hackney crowd all tempered by the sumptuous decor.

The Food
This is no ordinary Thai, and though it serves up all the usual favourites (Pad Thai and green curry) this is the place for branching out and trying new and unusual Thai dishes. The Yum Yum platter is hugely popular and is great for sampling a number of starters, but it is for the hungry. For a light starter, the Thai spring rolls, translucent rice paper wrapped around thin slices of cucumber, a handful of sprouts and mint, tastes like a virgin mojito dipped in the sweet chilli sauce.

The fish and seafood mains are fantastic. The Pla Yum Ma-muang (crispy sea bass with a green mango salad) turns fish and chips on its head and Hoy Shall Pad Bai Gra Prao (scallops with chilli and Thai basil leaves) is light, tangy and tasty. The mains come with a garnish so a side of Pad Pak (seasonal mixed vegetables) along with coconut or steamed rice is recommended. The mango and passion fruit mousse is light, fruity, almost yoghurt-like palate cleaning end to the meal. A meal with starters, main, pudding and a bottle of wine costs around £60 for two and they do great set menus for £18 to £20 per person.

The Drink
The cocktails at Yum Yum are so good that it’s almost worth coming half an hour early to hang out at the bar or lounge behind the carved wooden screen and start the evening with one of their perfect mojitos, or sip at glass long glass of gin, jasmine and elderflower over crushed ice, known as Jade Garden. Yum Yum also has a full and accomplished wine list and of course the usual selection of Singha, Lao and other beers.

The Last Word
Fragrant food, classic cocktails and graceful staff at this Thai jewel.

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