18 Greek Street,
Soho,
LONDON,
W1D 4DS
(020) 72872051
The ViewLondon Review
Bursting from the flames of its former life as the ever popular Boardwalk, Zebrano at the Establishment (the sister of Zebrano) offers cheap nights out to eat, drink and be merry without skimping on quality.The VenueLocated in the trendily downtrodden Greek Street in Soho, Zebrano at the Establishment can be found next to the local Wetherspoons – but don’t let that put you off! An attractive frontage clearly sets it apart as you enter a decadent world of dark reds, trendy paintings and interesting touches. This isn’t a high-end glamorous bar, but therein lies its charm – the brick walls lie in stark contrast to the sun burst gold mirrors, huge disco balls across the ceiling and modern art. Be sure to keep an eye out for the Zebrano motifs painted across the walls.
Anyone who remembers The Boardwalk will be pleasantly surprised by the changes that have been made. Gone are the days when a couple of hundred people would be crushed into the tiny space of the bar. Instead, it’s been opened right out. The bar area is the same as ever; the first thing to greet you through the door, there’s space for four barmen to comfortably serve and enough room for the hoards of thirsty drinkers to get in their happy hour drinks. Around the outer edge are high tables and seating – they’re sparse so get there early if you want to sit down. However, what’s really changed is the dining area, now opened out into a lounge space. The posh, space-consuming dining tables have been taken out and replaced with leather sofas and low tables, which can be reserved for the busy weekends. Towards the back are a scattering of dining tables, but these are compact and won’t encroach on the valuable drinking space.
Upstairs, there’s the VIP area, which can be hired out to parties for a minimum spend. This is decked out in the vibrant red of the rest of the venue, with its own small bar. A large screen TV for music videos and entertainment adourns a wall and you have a great view of the brilliantly huge disco ball, glittering in the light. Fantastically weird is a mannequin on a platform away from the main area, naked and distorted with black paint – so Soho! Downstairs is a small basement club, which consists of pretty much just a dancefloor with a sofa in the back for weary dancers. It’s a cool area for those wanting a low key club, and when the music is pumping and the dancefloor filled, it gives you the feeling of clubbing in a cave – in a good way.
The AtmosphereThis place is typically Soho. A decadent, attractive bar that isn’t trying too hard – and that’s reflected in the clientele. Expect a typically Soho eclectic crowd. Don’t be surprised to see drag queens largin’ it next to Goths, gay guys dancing next to straight guys, attractive office workers drinking side by side with grungy Soho types. It’s supposed to be a place where you can drink, dance and dine, but the emphasis is definitely on the excellent bar and cool, laid back vibe. Open until 3am, you can enjoy the full range of the atmosphere here, from the early post-work drinks vibe to the late night clubbing feel - great if it’s raining outside and you don’t fancy traipsing from place to place. Quieter early on in the week, by Thursday, expect it to be pumping. They also do a monthly comedy night and live music showcasing live bands.
At the weekends, the vibe is one of a full-on club - party people dancing the night away and having a good time. Trouble is put down quickly and efficiently by security – so don’t even think about causing trouble; the majority of people are friendly, sociable, and just out to kick back and have fun.
The FoodThe food at Zebrano at the Establishment is surprising in its restaurant quality. However, it’s recommended you don’t go for full dining late on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night when this place has more of a club vibe – instead, enjoy the excellent range of bar snacks to line the stomach and sample the reasonably priced menu. Come earlier in the week or early evening on the weekend for the full three courses and you’ll have more of a restaurant style experience, which is well worth trying. Starters include king prawns, which avoids the rubbery texture that infect such a dish, instead being tender and light. The Mediterranean salad is a particularly pleasant surprise, with none of the usual blandness of some salads; tempting the senses with the crunch of the pepper, the soft creaminess of the feta cheese and the sharp tang of the sundried tomatoes.
Mains of the traditional steak or more unusual swordfish steak are both excellent. The steak is cooked to specification and is tender and rich in beef flavours, with a light layer of fat to add that extra taste dimension. The swordfish is a surprise – being notoriously hard to cook, it’s a meaty fish that crumbles easily on the fork and provides a languid, meaty texture in the mouth. The bed of tabouleh it arrives on is light and delicate, providing the perfect accompaniment. Be sure to also order a mash potato side with both these dishes, which will be a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth addition. The lemon tart for dessert comes with a delicious dollop of cream and is topped with chocolate sauce, covering all the bases for whatever tempts your palate. Alternatively, follow up with a sweet cocktail and prepare for a drinking experience after your meal. And with a meal costing less than £50 for two people, it’s well worth the money.
The DrinkThis is where Zebrano at the Establishment excels, their drinks offering is top class at low prices, considering the area - there aren’t many places in London where you can get a shot of absinthe for just £4! There’s an excellent range of premium spirits including Grey Goose, Absolut and Belvedere vodkas. Wait, it gets better. Check out the happy hour (5pm-8pm Monday to Friday, 5pm-7pm Saturday) where ALL drinks, except Champagne and Champagne cocktails, are half price.
There’s a decent range of bottled beers, including Asahi, Peroni, and Leffe Blonde – nothing on draught, but there’s a Wetherspoons next door and this is a cocktail bar after all.
Best of all, is their cocktail list. Not the longest list in the world, granted, it’s still eclectic and has enough to offer everyone from the hardiest drinker to the virgin cocktail drinker a nice range of everything from the very hard alcoholic drinks to the creamy, softer concoctions. With a barman who boasts he can make a decent mojito in around 40 seconds (and proves it), you’ll be surprised at just how good such a speedy drink can taste! There’s even a bit of flair throw in for good measure, including a neat little trick with the Jaegermeister Bomb – a shot of Jagermeister in a long shot glass, placed inside a glass of Red Bull. Order a bunch of them and watch as the barman dominos them into the glasses – it’s gotta be seen to be believed. They’re even happy to do the unusual Flaming Lamborghini – delicious and great for showing off! If you prefer your cocktails creamy, they do a mean White Russian that’s sweet enough for the ladies. And with long cocktails priced at just £6.95 and shorts at the £4 mark, you can drink to your heart’s content even when it isn’t happy hour! Also be sure to sample the wine, which is delicious even at the lower end of the price scale.
The MusicStarting early on in the night, there’s a definite lounge feel to the tunes. Expect chart hits that will get you bopping in the bar area. And hallelujah! The music, although loud enough to emit an upbeat atmosphere, isn’t so loud that you have to scream at the top of your lungs just to be heard. You can still comfortably hold a conversation, which is great if you’re catching up with mates.
Downstairs, however, is another story. The main club area is loud and brash – just what you want when you’ve drunk your fill and want to let loose on the dancefloor. Expect funky house, house and RnB to blend effortlessly in and out, catering for all tastes and getting the party moving until the wee hours. The DJ is particularly good at seamlessly moving between genres.
The Last WordZebrano at the Establishment is a great little cocktail bar and a good place to settle in for the night. With a typical Soho vibe that’s not so hardcore that it will put off those new to the Soho scene, it’s a great addition to the area.