44 Commercial Street,
London,
E1 6LT
(020) 7426 0700
The ViewLondon Review
A modest little gem in Spitalfields, Zengi is a lovely escape to the Middle East with very reasonable prices.
The Venue
Situated directly opposite Petticoat Lane Market on Commercial Street, Zengi's authenticity can be felt right down to the tiniest tile on the mosaic plates hanging on the walls. Golden-framed, postcard-sized pictures, scatter cushions, worn gold chairs and glass and wooden light shades help create the kind of relaxed and comfy feel you’d find in Turkey. Shisha pipes are stored in the corner, waiting to be used in the seating area outside the restaurant when the weather warms up. An open kitchen and a counter with a wood-fire oven greets you on arrival, which - along with the décor - avoids the cheap kebab shop feel. Located across two levels, Zengi has a more intimate setting in the basement.
The Atmosphere
During lunch hours no music is played, which could help the place feel more vibrant and add a touch more culture to your experience. However, on Saturday nights, live music is on the menu. Reminding you that all the food is homemade, you can watch a chef rolling out dough for authentic Arabic pitta bread. Zengi has developed a loyal group of regulars who pop in for takeaway or sit down for their usual favourites. With only one waitress at lunch, the restaurant is still run very smoothly indeed, and she's even got time to suggest dishes.
The Food
From the hot meze menu, the haleb kibbeh (£4) is an absolute winner. This Zengi speciality is a crispy croquette-style rice and saffron shell filled with mincemeat that's mixed with the warm spices of the Middle East. The beautifully marinated meat is so delicious that two pieces just isn’t enough.
The falafel (£4), a Turkish staple and one of the best-known dishes of the region, is a bit of a let down in comparison. Slightly lacking in flavour even with the tahini sauced it’s served with, it could have done with a touch of coriander or something else to stand a chance against other dishes. This said, it still has a crunchy outside and a fluffy, soft chickpea centre – something everyone wants from a falafel.
Both dishes are served with a fresh, Mediterranean, parsley-laced salad whose purpose isn’t just presentation, but is a refreshing element to its heavier centre pieces. The free, home-made Arabic bread served with all meals is so fresh that it’s warm from the oven. The bread is wonderfully doughy with a slightly crispy outside and ideal for soaking up the aromatic juices from other dishes.
The Drink
The Turkish coffee (£2) comes in a very delicately decorated gold and white espresso-sized cup and saucer. After getting past the grains of coffee powder, it has a perfect balance of strength and creaminess with a velvety feel.
The Last Word
As more Middle Eastern restaurants arrive, Zengi hasn't a thing to worry about. The very well-priced food and beautiful surroundings is proof that quality and authenticity doesn’t have to cost the world.
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