Edgware Road isn’t the most likely location for an authentic Italian experience, but Zonzo has been offering up its own interpretation of Venice to local diners over the past 15 years.

The Venue
Zonzo isn’t your average Edgware Road venue. There’s a notable absence of shisha pipes parked outside and without a vindaloo in sight, Zonzo aims instead to serve up a slice of Italy. Even from the outside, the restaurant stands out from its peers with a wooden porch that looks like the kind of taverna you’ll frequent on your holidays. Indoors the décor is a little bit Las Vegas. The room emits a warm, golden hue, with alabaster walls, a chunky marble bar and a large-scale gold framed mirror that takes up the best part of one wall. The sky-light found at the rear of the restaurant is decorated with colourful (though tacky) views of Venice, replete with gondolas and statuettes. In the rear corner of this small venue is an open-plan kitchen, where one chef in traditional whites works around a giant, wood-fired pizza oven.

The Atmosphere
It seems as if Zonzo has built up a loyal customer base over the years, with bookings throughout the week and people popping in for a local bite. Staff are outgoing and welcoming, with an often boastful service adding to the Italian charm of the restaurant. And you may even find yourself warming to the kitsch décor, which certainly gives off a degree of Mediterranean brashness. It’s a shame that Zonzo is located on a busy and dilapidated section of Edgware Road, which ruins the illusion of Little Italy.

The Food
Staff are proud of the homemade breads, fresh seafood and stone-baked pizzas that are cornerstones of Zonzo’s lengthy menu. Garlic bread (£4.45) straight from the wood oven certainly tastes crisp and fresh, even if it is a touch short on seasoning. Calamari friti (£7.45) is served with a delicious and sharp tartar sauce, but the squid rings are ever so slightly undercooked. Gamberoni prezzemolati (£7.95) is a far more convincing dish, with grilled tiger prawns sliced in half and served in a sauce of traditional Italian flavours – butter, garlic, chilli, parsley and white wine. The prawns are sweet, succulent and meaty and brought to life by this classic marinade.

No Italian restaurant would be complete without pizza, and these pizzas won’t disappoint. The parma, rucola e parmigiano (£9.45) comes loaded with salty meat, extra parmesan cheese and fruity, cherry tomatoes, all topping a crisp and light pizza base. An impressive dish on Zonzo’s menu is the branzino alla zonzo (£15.45), a sea bass dish, which combines this perfectly cooked, meaty fish with more of those classic Italian flavours. Lemon, garlic and white wine perfectly complement the delicious bass, served on a bed of spinach and tenderstem broccoli, with a side of roasted rosemary and garlic potatoes. It is certainly the dish of the house with its subtle balance of rich flavours.

Dessert is less of an occasion. Although traditional tiramisu (£5.00) is a fine interpretation of an Italian classic, a chocolate fondant cake (£5.00) is disappointingly dry and desperate for a sauce or scoop of ice cream on the side.

The Drink
Wine buffs and Italophiles alike will be pleased with an all Italian wine list, with an impressive selection of dessert wines to boot. The Nero d’Avola (£17.50) from Sicily is an especially delicious and full-bodied wine choice. And for something a bit more sparkly, champagnes are also available, as well as a house prosecco (£18).

The Last Word
If you’re in the area and don’t fancy a curry, you could be pleasantly surprised by the good-quality, authentic Italian fare at Zonzo. Its decor may be outdated, but friendly, warm service and fresh, flavoursome foods never go out of fashion.

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