41 Bow Lane,
London,
EC4M 9EB
0872 148 1085
The ViewLondon Review
One of the most enjoyable perks of this profession can also be the most misleading.
On the whole, launch parties provide the tired hack with copious booze and finger food, a smattering of preening pseudocelebs, famous foodies, etc and the opportunity to initiate drunken and moderately flirtatious conversation with a gaggle of eager beaver waitresses.
The trouble is that the success of the launch is in no way related to the success of the venture of the whole. There have been some spectacular openings over the last few months; however, some of these have resulted in equally spectacular collapses.
Even if the venue is a success, the atmosphere on opening night can differ wildly from an average midweek visit. It was with this nugget of empirical wisdom in mind as I staggered back home after the launch of Zuccato City that I decided that I really must go and eat there rather than regurgitate a press release.
Zuccato City is to be found in Bow Lane, a charming little street around the corner from the Mansion House. It appears a touch diminutive from outside; upon entry however ones discovers another room downstairs and more seating in the courtyard beyond.
The clientele consisted of a mixed bag of suited and booted city types, though the younger crowd were definitely in the majority – less pinstripes and frumpy hair-dos, more Jil Sander and kitten heels. The interior was efficiently chic – small marble-topped tables, tidy bar, black leather seats and so on.
If you like your Italian authentic and stylish, this is the place to come. The menu was long, but many of the dishes were variations on a theme, and I was impressed by the variety of ideas, ingredients and care that had obviously gone into it. Plenty of interesting antipastos, pizzas, pastas and salads appeared to provide appropriate sustenance for any appetite.
Prices were also very reasonable, with starters around £5 and mains between £7 and £15. I went for a radicchio, rocket and broad bean salad – very fresh, lovely dressing and the youngest and most tender beans this side of the River Café.
Dr Tom chose a pizza topped with mozzarella, sausage and radicchio which was judged to be fantastic – the sausage being a far cry from your average British porker (probably air freighted from Umbria the previous morning) and the cheese similarly distinguished. Washed down with a couple of Budvars, the result was an exceptionally pleasant lunch.
If I had to make any criticisms it would be that the tables were a little close together, and would have benefited from being properly clothed. Apart from that, I highly recommend a visit, and judging from the lack of empty tables, I imagine booking might be a sensible option in future.
Zuccato City has been reviewed by 2 users