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The Londoner's Guide to London
23 November 2008
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The Porterhouse

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21-22 Maiden Lane,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 7NA

0871 971 6432 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byAlex Donohue06/10/2005


If marks were rewarded for originality alone, then this hostelry would likely score higher than most in Covent Garden. The labyrinthine passages of Porterhouse, bedecked with copper piping and clocks, are like something from a Herman Melville novel. But aside from the nautical décor, the real attraction is the range of European beers.

The Venue
Normally, the words Irish and pub, in Central London are enough to send any discerning drinker running for the hills faster than you can say O’Neill’s. Thankfully, there are no comedy hats, emerald coloured ales or leprechaun motifs to send you packing. Instead, the split levels and alcoved seats provide a warm atmosphere for after work drinks.

The Food
The menu, whilst hardly extensive, offers typical British pub fare. The main benefit is you can feed for less than a tenner in central London. The Lime and Coriander Chicken, and Smoked Salmon Bruschetta are two of the more popular dishes, but the dessert menu is practically non-existent.

The Drink
More time for beer then. If your colleague’s drinking palate only extends to Stella and Becks, then this probably isn’t the place for them. But if your penchant is for off the wall, then the likes of Temple Brau - a fine malt made from German hops, and Brainblasta - a nutty chocolate malt at a hefty seven percent, should satisfy. The Belgian, La Chouffe is, at £6.50 a glass, also worth investigating if you like your beer to taste like a dessert.

The Atmosphere
Partly due to its proximity to the Adelphi Theatre and The Strand, Porterhouse attracts a steady flow of slightly lost tourists, and bankers hiding from their bosses - easily done if you find a comfortable corner. It can get extremely busy after 5pm most evenings, something to bear in mind if your legs are tired. If you plan on ordering food after late afternoon, expect a wait.

The Last Word
Porterhouse is part of a small Irish chain, which doesn’t pretend to provide anything countless other Covent Garden bars offer – esoteric beers excepted. But if ambience is as important to you as your choice of refreshment, Porterhouse is a convenient base camp for an evening's drinking expedition.

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