When the infamous Marco Pierre White presides over affairs of the kitchen, the standard should be superb. And L’Escargot doesn’t disappoint.

The Venue
From the impeccable welcome as you enter, to the uber professional and strangely comforting maitre d’, L’Escargot oozes class and customer service. There’s a lavish look to the dining room but it’s never made to feel stuffy or formal. Sumptuous decor is softened and modernised by comfortable leather seating and contemporary art, encouraging a relaxed dining experience that appears to be adopted by most visitors.

The Atmosphere
Despite the air of exclusivity that places like L’Escargot often give off, the prices here aren’t particularly frightening so don’t expect to find it full of Hooray Henrys or bloated City boys. It soon becomes clear that food is the attraction here, rather than kudos, so you’re more likely to come across enthusiastic foodies getting excited by a particular creation or cooing unpretentiously over the wine list. The service, albeit as pristine as the fixtures and fittings, is never intrusive, and the fact that it feels invisible is almost as welcome as the food.

The Food
The name should give visitors an insight into the cuisine but for those of you that took German at O Level, it’s French. As you might expect from an establishment of this reputation and direction, the food is sublime. Visitors on a shoestring can sample a set lunch menu which offers unbelievable value for money and doesn’t scrimp on quality, while those with a little more freedom can indulge in some genuinely innovative and delicious dishes.

Particularly impressive choices include the gravadlax of salmon – a delicious little starter with quality cured salmon softly complemented by radish and orange salad. And the roasted lamb chop with crushed mint peas and rosemary jus is so well prepared it’s almost ostentatiously showing off the expertise in the kitchen. Other selections seemed just as impressive, with even a Caeser salad provoking drawls of delight from one diner. Those put off by small portions will be pleased with L’Escargot – dishes are refined yet not at all shy, in taste or size.

The Drink
The wine list is one of the restaurant’s highlights. The house wines are very good considering their reasonable price and they should complement most dishes very well. However, after the house wines, the prices rise steeply, which reflects the stunning quality of some on offer. If you can afford it, be brave, as this is a wine list that’s clearly been meticulously thought out with considerable expertise. Most other drinking options are available but when the food is this good, be careful to find something to complement it – a coke will not make your orange and black pepper glazed leg of duck taste better.

The Last Word
A delightfully relaxed fine dining experience, L’Escargot excels in pretty much every department. Marco Pierre White should be swishing his locks with pride.

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