71 Great Titchfield Street,
Fitzrovia,
London,
W1W 6RB
(020) 7580 8075
The ViewLondon Review
The quiet evening charm of Great Titchfield Street makes an ideal setting for this romantic, cosy little restaurant, which should, with any luck, start to make a name for itself.
The Venue
Although it's not the first time this location has been a restaurant, it clearly started as a bakery some years ago, with the old ovens now transformed into a romantic dining room. The catacomb-like rooms off the main floor, with their arched doorways and brick lined interiors, create a semi-private and unique setting for diners lucky enough to secure their tables.
On the primary floor, you'll find several tightly woven tables decked in linens of faun and white, cloth napkins, glass and silver. The ceiling boasts white ceramic tiles now permanently discoloured by years of bakery oven smoke, as well as classic old world chandeliers and a soothing, rolling contour that not only adds charm to the scene, but helps to control the din. Mirrors, wood accents, candlelight, ceramic flooring and stunning architecture make the subterranean setting an utterly unique and inviting room.
The ground floor is completely different, yet no less charming. Tables are the same below, but the mirror lined walls with bookcase shelving storing a multitude of wines makes clever use of the space. The large street-side glass windows provide a pleasant view of the tranquil neighbourhood and although it may still be too cold to avail them, the outdoor tables add to the Italian bistro feel of the main floor.
The Atmosphere
Depending on the floor, the atmosphere can vary from romantic to relaxed, yet both are relatively soothing and pleasant, with a crowd that's mainly middle-aged or younger. The torch song singers playing softly in the background seem appropriate for all comers, and provide a nice change from the traditional Italian singers used to set the scene in similar restaurants. Staff are helpful and courteous, although the slight language barrier does prevent them from having the warmth of interaction you might want. That turns out to be Chef Manager Giuseppe Vanucci's job, and he seems to be doing it admirably.
The Food
Those that might complain that Bellaria is a bit pricey, may be somewhat justified, depending on which menu items they choose: certainly the Sardine alla Griglia starter at £7.50, could lend itself to that sentiment. Here a modest portion of two small sardines are presented grilled, butterflied and topped with herbs. Although there's nothing technically wrong with the dish, it could stand to be more generous and innovative.
The Cartoccio di Calamari (£9.00) is presented better and offers more value. Served in a parchment paper cone, the squid rings and accompanying courgette segments are lightly coated, pleasantly seasoned and cooked to allow the inherent tenderness of each to shine through, without becoming greasy or chewy in the process. The pastas are homemade and the quality of the finished product is beautiful. The kitchen is skilled and when they get a dish right, they do it amazingly well.
Case in point, the Risotto con Funghi (£9.75). Here you are presented with a traditional Italian dish that's done with style. Added to the perfectly cooked, light and creamy Arborio rice is a beautiful assortment of wild mushrooms, some fresh herbs, and a drizzle of truffle oil to complete the dish. Simple, flavoursome and quite possibly the best example of a mushroom risotto you're likely to find. Another notable offering is the Grigliata di Carne, which is their version of a mixed grill plate. At £19.95, it comes in as one of the most expensive dishes on the menu, but fortunately the kitchen is more generous with the portions on this one, and when you factor the two veal medallions into the mix, it becomes well worth the price. All the meats (chicken, beef, veal and lamb) are cooked to perfection, whilst the roasted potatoes are crispy, brown and delicious.
Desserts can be a bit of a mixed bag. The list sticks with many Italian traditional desserts and is recited to guests at the table. Although this seems like a nice touch it robs diners of the opportunity to read a description or note the price (£6.00 by the way). The Tiramisu makes a good choice, with its rich espresso flavours, creamy-but-firm texture, and spongy lady fingers that resist the urge to be soggy. The chocolate mousse, unfortunately, is an utter disappointment. Though it looks nice enough (a white chocolate pouch filled with mousse and then dusted with cocoa powder), its taste fails to impress. This one needs to go back to the drawing board.
The Drink
Once again a menu of drinks and prices is noticeably absent. Still, Bellaria has a bar well equipped enough to handle most traditional requirements, from soft drinks and beers to spirits and liquors. The focus, though, is on wine and the by-the-bottle list has some impressive choices. The list is designed to give a cross-section of Italian wines suitable for pairing with the menu items. Certainly it will do just that, but if you lack knowledge of Italian wines, you may need to have the staff walk you through your choices.
By the glass, the standout offering is the Monte Del Fra Valpolicella Superiore Classico Ripasso DOC. It's not often you get a chance to taste a 'baby amarone' by the glass, and this one is worth the £12.75 a glass. The Broglia Gavi di Gavi La Meirana (£8.75 a glass/£27.25 a bottle) is a nice choice for a white wine. Well balanced, smooth and crisp, this is merely one good example of the unique wines available. For those interested in learning more about Italian wines in general, Bellaria offers regular wine tastings, which will allow you to expand your wine palate and sample some of their fine selections.
The Last Word
With the expertise in the kitchen not quite touching all dishes, Bellaria isn't perfect. But you get the impression that with a few little tweaks, they'll get there soon.
Bellaria has been reviewed by 14 users