20 Old Brompton Road,
South Kensington,
London,
SW7 3DL
(020) 7225 2772
The ViewLondon Review
The team behind the popular Scandinavian catering company have waved goodbye to the nomadic life and set up home with a very tasty restaurant in South Kensington.
The Venue
Few London restaurants can have a more stylish reference point than being directly opposite a flagship Lamborghini showroom, and piggybacking on the glamour of the Italian marque instantly gives Madsen kudos. The restaurant’s simple graphite exterior certainly won’t distract the gaze of automobile fans, but its stylish and understated design does fit the restaurant’s ethos well. Inside follows the same vein, with a white and pale wood colour scheme being suitably Scandinavian, nicely presentable and clean, but perhaps just a little bit too cold to make it somewhere in which to spend a long time.
The seating makes use of the limited space well, ensuring that even at busy times it doesn’t become too cluttered, whilst a small bar to the restaurant’s rear ensures that if you’re waiting for something to take away, you won’t be a burden. An exposed brick wall and a smattering of colourful flowers help to soften what could otherwise be a clinical interior, whilst soft lighting from the iconic PH5 lamps nod nicely towards the restaurant’s Scandinavian authenticity.
The Atmosphere
The quality of its food, and the dearth of genuinely authentic Scandinavian restaurants in London, means that this is a haven for those looking for this cuisine. It takes a while to get going in the evening but come eight o’clock it gradually starts filling up, and within an hour it’s bustling with small groups, loving couples, suits and even the odd lone blonde diner there for a taste of home. When it’s quiet it fuels accusations of cold sterility, but as soon as a few people are through the door the atmosphere picks up and it feels like a warm, vibrant and almost cosy restaurant.
The Food
Madsen’s food is the real draw, with a varied and immaculately conceived menu that combines modern Scandinavian cuisine with traditional Nordic dishes. Prices vary, but £5.75 for a starter and £10.50 for a main off the dinner menu are on the lower end of the list. Lunchtimes visits enable diners to enjoy smorrebrod, Danish open sandwiches on a choice of sourdough or Danish rye bread. The roast beef with remoulade, crispy onions and horseradish is the pick of a beautifully presented bunch, but the smoked salmon with mayonnaise, Greenland prawns and dill is certainly worth a try too.
Although the lunchtime offerings are good, if you can keep hunger at bay the dinner menu is a must thanks to excellent value and dishes that benefit from equally excellent produce. Choice starters include smoked salmon with deliciously aromatic herb-marinated cold potatoes and a well balanced red onion and mustard dressing, and bouncy, impeccably cooked scallops on a bed of pumpkin with a light lemon sauce and served on a crunchy piece of toasted rye bread.
Mains are equally impressive, with the Nordic-style chicken fillet cooked being a good option, boasting tender chicken served with a light and creamy horseradish sauce that never threatens to become overbearing, and some very hearty oven roasted root vegetables. The pearl barley risotto is again served with a healthy portion of autumn vegetables, and a few crispy parsnips that add a nice bit of crunch to perfectly timed, and superbly seasoned rice.
Desserts are good, though the size of the previous rounds might make them quite tricky to complete. The chocolate fondant is delightfully rich and flavoursome, and complemented nicely by a spicy cinnamon ice cream and some sweet and tangy glazed apples. The best though, is the vanilla poached pear that’s soft and succulent and served with a buttermilk foam and a thick, ever so sweet caramel sauce on the side that just begs to be returned to.
The Drink
There’s a surprisingly good wine list that’s very well thought out, and ethical. Eschewing the New World wines in order that they cut down on transport costs, the Madsen wine list doesn’t suffer a jot, instead showcasing some of the best bins Europe has to offer. The Italian Theassaurum Zibbibo represents excellent value, and brings a little bounce to the palate thanks to fresh fruit flavours and a hint of sparkle. The von Hessen Riesling is equally good, yet a great deal softer and more manageable, but perhaps the best choice is a superbly priced Bisol prosecco at £28.50 that tastes just like the real thing.
The Last Word
Visit when it’s a little busier and you’ll be in for a Scandinavian treat, where the food and ambience make this a winner. Go when it’s quiet though, and you might end up gazing longingly across the road, dreaming of Italian sunshine.
Madsen has been reviewed by 4 users