Apex London Wall Hotel,
7-9 Copthall Avenue,
Bank,
London,
EC2R 7NJ
(020) 7562 3030
The ViewLondon Review
Not so long ago, this building was just another City office. It is now one of three Apex Hotels, the first being near Tower Bridge and a third, just off Fleet Street, due to open in 2012. All three are four-starred boutique hotels, with dining experiences to match
The Venue
Restaurants in hotels can be rather soulless – after all, most visitors are usually guests – but Off The Wall’s quiet, understated decor and relaxed atmosphere makes for a pleasant setting. The restaurant isn’t full, but there is a calm ambience, aided by sympathetic lighting and plenty of room between tables.
The Atmosphere
A large party of businesswomen are deep in conversation but nothing permeates the rest of the restaurant from their discreet table. It’s the perfect place for such a meeting, as a large table is situated at the back of the restaurant and afforded privacy by virtue of a beaded screen. But it would also be suitable for ladies who lunch (or dine) and amorous couples. Elegant and well appointed.
The Food
Mashed potato as part of a starter? It shouldn’t work – and, actually, it doesn’t. The creamed potato comes with braised ox cheek (£10.50), which is way too weighty to be a starter, no matter how hungry you may be. But the meat is soft and tender and full to bursting with flavour. It’s a brave menu choice, but why not beef it up (no pun intended) and serve as a main course? If the chef turned another cheek – it comes with two as a starter – with perhaps more of the token bacon and advertised but absent onion, it could be a truly fabulous dish. Almost as hearty but entirely acceptable as a starter is a chicken liver parfait (£8). That’s more like it! One tends to think of a parfait as being rather rough in texture, but this is silky smooth and rich, nicely counteracted by the accompanying chutney apple and raisin and served with tasty toasted sourdough bread.
When the main of scallops (£17.50) arrives it is initially disappointing, as there are only four on the plate. Without wishing to sound greedy, one does expect rather more as a main. Greed aside, however, this is a great dish. The scallops are perfectly cooked, plump and sweet. The lentil stew they come with looks a little unappetising – puy lentils are not a pretty colour – but has a deep, earthy flavour that, perhaps surprisingly, complements the sweetness of the scallops. A side of well-cooked broccoli adds colour and crunch. The skate wing (£20.50) is advertised as whole but comes trimmed. An initial let-down, but actually how much meat do you get from the frilly bits? It looks attractive, tastes delicious and is served with crunchy sauteed potatoes.
Puddings are less avant-garde than the starters and mains but there’s plenty of choice. If they are all as accomplished as the lemon tart and lime sorbet (£6.50), you won’t be disappointed. A selection of cheese (£8) is generous and attractively presented, including a cave-aged Coombe cheddar, Shropshire blue and an unusual offering called Lubboran, a Somerset brie which is creamy and full-flavoured.
The Drink
With such a captive audience in a hotel, it must be tempting to bump up the prices, but Off The Wall exercises admirable restraint. Hence you might enjoy an extremely pleasant – and wonderfully named – Mullygrubber Chardonnay Semillon from Australia, which is full of zest and zing, for £19. The red equivalent, at the same price, is a Tempranillo. The house champagne is a teeth-sucking £45, but a prosecco rose, always a more than adequate substitute, is £26.
Do, however, try the cocktails, which are about £7.50. The eponymous signature, Off the Wall, is a divine mix of spiced rum and berry cordial, lime, raspberry, black pepper and ginger beer. It tastes like Christmas in a glass. Off The Wall also offers a variety of punches which sound intriguing, as does a cocktail called a Painkiller, presumably designed for the morning after. But if it’s breakfast imbibing you’re into, ask for their excellent Espresso Martini.
The Last Word
It takes a lot to lure diners into a hotel restaurant, but Off The Wall might just do it – it offers accomplished cooking, an adventurous menu and friendly and obliging service.
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