96 Wandsworth High Street,
Wandsworth,
London,
SW18 4LB
(020) 8877 1851
The ViewLondon Review
The good times keep rolling at the latest branch of Grand Union, a very respectable chain that brings its well-known party vibe, an unbeatable beer garden and those amazing burgers to Wandsworth.
The Venue
As this upmarket burger, cocktail and party spot spreads across London, Grand Union is fast becoming a familiar sight. With nine venues already across the capital, it’s a relief to find that this latest opening wows with all the pizzazz and grandeur of its predecessors, and potentially boasts the best beer garden of the lot.
Inside is an elegant boudoir-style decor flouncing with eclectic glamour - dainty floral wallpaper, charming chintzy oriental fans, extravagant beaded chandeliers and jewel–toned lighting are roughed up with leather couches and neon signs. Outside is an amazing space that arguably takes the crown from the Grand Union Brixton for the best summer spot in south London. Christened the Pleasure Garden, this oasis will seduce you with its grassy spaces and decking laden with slouchy beanbags, hammocks and island bar. The ‘Thai’ treehouses made famous by the Brixton branch are also set to make an appearance before next summer.
The Atmosphere
All dark and moody by night and playful by day, The Grand Union doesn’t fail to entertain all year round – whether you want to nurse a glass of merlot on a wintry night or sip jugs of Pimm’s while basking and partying in the sun. This GU is slightly more out of the way than the others so if you’re lucky, you might find it less crowded than some of the others.
The Food
Come with a big appetite because you can’t leave here without sampling the gourmet burgers. From the original beef Classic (£6.95) to the unusual Caesar (with Caesar dressing and parmesan shavings, £7.95), to the downright indulgent, towering Fully Loaded (with bacon, cheddar, onion rings and BBQ sauce, £8.95), all the top-quality 7oz meat patties are juicy, perfectly cooked and bursting with flavour. With 23 amazing toppings to choose from (including four inventive veggie options), you’re left with quite the conundrum when it’s time to order.
The burgers are not for the fainthearted though, so if you fancy something a little more lightweight, the breadless stacks are the next best thing. The chicken and goats’ cheese stack comes with a lovingly seasoned plump chicken breast draped with char-grilled aubergine, accessorised with vibrant sun-blushed tomatoes, giant chunks of goats’ cheese and dots of nutty pesto – a hugely satisfying dish for £7.95. There are also pizzas, salads, ribs and delicious sides (make sure you order the cracking fries or creamy coleslaw with your burgers as they come solo). In general, the food is exceptional, honest pub fare with a few twists, and you won’t be disappointed.
The Drink
The joy continues into the cocktail menu, boasting classics like caipirinhas and cosmos, all at £7.50, and delicious tipples like the extra-luscious, fresh and fruity watermelon daiquiri. The elderflower Collins is also special – Bombay Sapphire, elderflower, lime, sugar and soda comes tall, sweetly balanced and decidedly drinkable. A smallish but nicely varied wine list is very reasonably priced, starting from £3.95/£12.95 for a French chardonnay. Further up the list, the Italian pinot grigio (£4.95/£16.55) is fruity and aromatic, and the perfect light and refreshing chaser for one of those burgers. With plenty on tap and bottled beers too, there’s no worries that your thirst won’t be quenched here.
The Last Word
It's rumoured there are quite a few more GUs to follow this one, and while their winning formula in Wandsworth is testament to their success, let’s hope quantity doesn’t ruin their quality. Certainly, so far, they’ve done a sterling job.
The Grand Union has been reviewed by 4 users