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The Londoner's Guide to London
23 November 2008
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1802 bar, lounge & dining

Venue Image
Venue Image
No.1 Warehouse,
West India Quay,
Canary Wharf,
London,
E14 4AL

0870 444 3886 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMichael Darvell24/01/2008
The restaurant at the Museum in Docklands is named after the date of the building itself, which was originally a sugar warehouse. Apart from its other exhibitions on the history of the area, the Museum also has a permanent display on ‘London, Sugar and Slavery’. The 1802 restaurant provides a comfort station for visitors to the Museum, although there is also a coffee bar within the galleries themselves.

The Venue
This canalside site couldn’t be a better one, particularly if it is warm enough to sit outside and watch the world passing by, coming and going across the bridge to Canary Wharf. The restaurant itself retains the original open brickwork, a touch of antiquity coupled with a light and fresh appearance that belies its age. It’s a comfortable place to sit and enjoy a drink, a coffee, a quick lunch or brunch at the weekend - the restaurant doesn't serve dinner, so you'll have to catch them during the day.

The Atmosphere
At lunchtime it is a really pleasant place to unwind, perhaps after a tour of the Museum or on a break from all that serious financial work that goes on in Canary Wharf. There certainly seems to be a laid back feeling about this large open-plan room that is most welcoming, and the staff are particularly helpful and friendly. Separate private rooms are available for functions which 1802 regularly arranges.

The Food
The best of British is the order of the day here with choices including beer battered haddock and chips and Cumberland sausages and mash with sweet cured bacon and onion gravy as main course choices. For starters the mushrooms on toast with poached egg and butter sauce couldn‘t be more British, while the Smoked haddock kedgeree fishcake with wilted greens, poached egg and mustard sauce is another terrific dish, a tasty mixture with the soft flakes of fish melding nicely with the egg. If you prefer, you can also order it as a main meal (for £3 extra).

The honey-glazed Suffolk belly of pork is a vast piece of meat covering the plate, but eminently satisfying and done to a delicious and crackling turn. From the Fast Track lunch menu (main course plus wine, beer or soft drink for £10 – and those in a rush can be in and out in 45 minutes) are Stilton, mushroom and leek pie, lamb burger and chips, or Hereford beef and ale pie with champ and gravy. This last is a rich and luscious pie, packed with tender meat and vegetables on a bed of mashed potatoes mixed with spring onions. Good, hearty portions will not see you going hungry here because this cuisine is comfort food at its best. For dessert it has to be apple crumble and custard or the Amarula creme brulee with orange and cranberries, unless the white chocolate cheesecake with poached plums or the British cheese selection take your fancy.

The Drink
The Belgian beer list is prominent at 1802 and includes Leffe Blonde, Fruli Strawberry, Campus Amber, Duvel and Kwak. There are house wines from under £14 a bottle, or under £4 for a glass. Les Clarières Merlot is good and drinkable, while the selection extends around the world at prices reaching a £35 top, apart from the Champagnes from £35.50. Other drinks include dessert wines, digestifs and a range of speciality coffees.

The Last Word
This is a good find and makes a change from the many chain restaurants that dominate Canary Wharf and the Docklands area. Apart from the £10 quickie lunch, a three-course meal with a glass of wine would cost from around £25 a head. Probably busier during the week than at weekends, 1802 does however offer a Saturday and Sunday brunch menu that’s worth trying as well.
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