The ViewLondon Review
Often overshadowed by the Absolut Icebar located above it, belowzero is well worth a visit in its own right. With a new Head Chef, Sean Marshall, joining the team, here’s hoping that the restaurant will get the recognition it deserves.The Venuebelowzero is set up into three distinct areas, the bulk of it residing under the famous Absolut Icebar, where everything – including the glasses – is made of ice. On the ground floor is the Wolf Bar, which is relatively unassuming and laid back thanks to touches of brown and grey. Downstairs the Reindeer Lounge is perfect for a before- or after-dinner drink, with low, curved seats and heavy wood tables and cushion-scattered sofa style seats. The bar in the lounge is quite a talking point, with a glowing front and a beautiful light fixture overhead, made up of glass baubles of different sizes and a few empty bottles mixed in. The effect is that of a group of calming, glimmering bubbles hovering over the bar.
The restaurant, called the Moose Dining Room (sensing an arctic theme here?) is separated from the lounge by red velvet curtains. Although the room seems small, the tables are well spaced with a few that would seat good-sized groups; stringy curtains further divide the restaurant, giving a sense of privacy. The seats and tables are similar to the lounge area, with dark-coloured wood and scattered cushions. Instead of art, flat-screen TVs play graphics of arctic landscapes during a shimmering Aurora Borealis, with the occasional moose and clump of evergreens shadowed on the screen. The overall colour theme is deep browns, reds and opaque black, making for a very warming atmosphere.
The AtmosphereBecause of belowzero’s location underneath Absolut Icebar, people seem to stumble on it when the Ice Bar is full booked, or by booking the restaurant as an afterthought. As such the restaurant is quite quiet, removed from the roving eyes of the groups that frequent Soho – or Mayfair – for drinks and dinner. Although it would be the perfect spot for an intimate date, the restaurant is likewise suited for impressing clients or if you want a quiet night out with friends, as the feel of the place is calm and subdued, but not stuffy. Service is exemplary, going above and beyond what you’d expect, and particularly knowledgeable about the wine list.
The FoodNew chef Sean Marshall (who has worked at Prism, Oxo Tower and Mint Leaf) has revamped the menu so it has a modern European feel, and keeping with the theme of the restaurant there are other hints as well, the kind of food you could imagine eating in a forest cabin with snow-topped mountains out the window: lots of game and fish. There are a few vegetarian choices on the menu and vegetarians will be happy to know that they’re not relegated to the usual pasta-aubergine-mushroom fare. Prices lean towards the expensive, but no more so than you’d expect for a non-touristy restaurant just off Regent Street.
Starters include a beetroot, pepper and pumpkin tart with Ragstone goat’s cheese and creme fraiche (£7), a lovely combination of flavours, creamy and tart and warming all at once. The reindeer (£11) comes on a thick slab of wood as a plate, and the meat is pink, tender and thinly-sliced, almost like carpaccio. Reindeer meat (if you can get over the guilt of eating one of Santa’s furry helpers) tastes like venison, but heavier and slightly saltier. The main of venison (£24) is a fantastic choice for fans of game, with the meat pink and juicy and cooked perfectly to order. This is served with a meltingly tender foie gras in two large, plump pieces, succulent braised cabbage and a tangy pink compote of beetroot and cranberries. The sea bream (£13.50) is a large fillet of the meaty, white fish, served with wet and salty samfire (like a prickly type of seaweed) and some scattered clams. Although the food is hearty, portions are appropriate and you can clean your plate without feeling greedy or overly full.
Desserts look really unusual, with choices like carmelised dragon fruit and peanut butter souffle. The cheeseboard has some good choices at £8, but the real standout is the banoffee cheesecake, which has an amazingly creamy yet slightly crunchy texture, with a thin layer of caramel on top. This is served with a thin, brittle slice of dried banana and a banana sorbet that’s pleasantly tart and sweet.
The DrinkStaff are happy to recommend wines to go with the food, and the Carignan Syrah Merlot from Chile at £31 matches well with both meat and fish. Ask for it to be decanted, to let the wine breathe (if staff haven’t already offered) and there’ll be a show of sniffing, tasting and swirling it around in a full-bottomed glass decanter before it’s presented to you for your approval. It pays off, as well, as the wine has an extraordinary full bodied taste with a hint of ripe red berries. Other wines on the list range from an affordable £17 to a pricey £390, with a few available by the glass and nearly every country represented.
A cocktail or two in the bar beforehand or afterwards is also recommended. The Cointreau Teese, created by Dita Von Teese, is a suitably glamorous mix of Cointreau, apple juice, violet syrup and lemon juice – subtle with a sharp kick. The Mexican 75 is made up of tequila, lime juice and Champagne, and is a good choice for a lighter, non-fruity option, as it has a sparkly, refreshing taste without relying on syrups.
The Last WordIf you haven’t yet heard of belowzero, you’d be forgiven as the Absolut Icebar is one of the most well known bars in London and seems to take all the spotlight. However, with its creative and well executed menu and its calm, secluded atmosphere, you almost want to keep belowzero all to yourself.