WI with glamour in a fine food pantry – an interesting oddity.

The Venue
Off the beaten track in West London, to shop at this upmarket deli you either have to be a local, be keen to source something it stocks, or be attending one of the events held in the basement space. The staff dress is inspired by the 1920s film star Betty Blythe, namesake of the pantry, which is also decked out like a jewellery box. The owner’s magpie-like instinct for all that’s pretty leads her buying sense. In the small upstairs shop a painting of birds spans the window and reflects a counter full of artfully arranged cakes, shelves of retro sweet jars and decorative china tea pots amongst other things (raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens spring to mind…).

The most modern pieces of equipment are the gleaming coffee machine and deli fridge, stocked with an array of goods. A white wooden painted table is piled high with organic egg boxes, but not set up to sit down at. There are a couple of tables outside, sunshine permitting, and the frivolity continues downstairs with two tiny cave-like coves, one referred to optimistically as the Champagne room and another with a small fountain and bird cage. The gold luxury wallpaper in the toilet and a chest of drawers stuffed with dressing up gear adds to the madness.

The Atmosphere
It takes a significant stretch of imagination to envisage the events that are held there - be it a tea party, chocolate workshop, fashion meeting, or even a burlesque evening. It doesn’t quite work for a rendezvous with friends and without a lunchtime crowd the atmosphere seems a little forced. The overall theme is executed down to the last detail, but slightly over-orchestrated.

The Food
The fare here is, however, fantastic. Top quality items are sourced mainly from Devon and Somerset, apart from the odd tin of Heinz baked beans to keep it real, with the concession that they are organic. Arrive early for the lunchtime sandwiches (£3.75 - £4.95), prepared in their offsite kitchen and piled high on the counter, with a variety of fillings depending on stocks. There is everything you need in the fridge for a perfect picnic, which the staff will organise on request - from making up your hamper to delivering it to the spot of your choice complete with checked blankets laid out to sit on, idyllic.

Bread from Gail’s Bakery is a top choice (£1.90 - £2.90), as is the Gilcombe Farm ham, Heal Farm smoked meats (£3.45) and a selection of cheese, pies, goujons and chutneys (£3.25). Chilli jam is worth trying for a sweet fresh relish, or the onion marmalade full of dark caramelized pieces of onion, which complement a cheese and meat board superbly. The counter lends itself well to cakes in its love of display. Cute colourful cupcakes (£2.20) are light with a generous amount of soft buttery icing and carefully placed sprinkles, or choose a brownie (£1.60) or slice of something else to accompany your cup.

The Drink
There’s a vast range of herbal teas, with exciting blends, or coffee to drink in or take away (£2.20). An afternoon tea (from £3.50 per person) as an alternative to alcoholic options is also available. Shaken Udder smoothies, ginger beer (£1.90), juices and even an asthetically pleasing bottled water make up the deli drinks cabinet.

The Last Word
The food is fantastic but the atmosphere at Betty Blythe is more suited to an upper class deli than a cafe.

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