Hankering for a hunk of haggis in a Highland hotspot? Then why not mosey on down to Boisdale of Bishopsgate where you’ll also be treated to a jot of jazz and a tug on a Cuban cigar.

The Venue
Dwarfed by its imposing and crudely named neighbor – Dirty Dicks pub – the entrance to Boisdale of Bishopsgate is but a mere alley and one must amble past the booze brigade in order to find the gateway to its hallowed Highland turf. Underplaying this auspicious little alcove is a surefire statement of intent and a mark of Boisdale’s confidence at attracting its quota of customers without wheeling out the promotional circus.

It’s the sort of place you’d imagine the Freemasons might retire to after one of their meetings in order to discuss the finer points of fox hunting whilst wetting their whistles with a swig of whisky. In terms of regular City dwellers, it’s swamped with suited men who inhabit the large oak and mahogany units in the interior like Knights of the Round Table. Downstairs the establishment is rife with tartan trimmings – the aforementioned rich wooden furnishings, red brick walls that harbor a gloriously garish glow and give the illusion of warmth, golden mirrors and pictures of the Scottish Hebrides and huntsman wielding age old rifles.

There’s also an American-style sub section of dining booths for less formal diners and the adjacent Champagne and oyster bar with its customary piano playing jazz musician. Look closely and you might even spot a pair jeans on the horizon. The archways that bridge the adjoining rooms are reminiscent of the kind of architecture you might find in The London Dungeon, only with ice buckets instead of medieval torches stationed in the corners.

The Atmosphere
The first floor in Boisdale’s is indebted to the overspill of Dirty Dicks for its raucous ramblings and is a less civilised reflection of the atmosphere downstairs. Indeed, there’s an air of serenity on the ground floor in the early evening. The Champagne and oyster bar is sparsely populated and the lone jazz musician sings the blues, filling the silence with the honeyed tones emanating from his piano. But as the evening gets into full swing the booths begin to brim with babble and clans of suited seniors start to exert their authority.

Whilst the staff are solid and professional, service is leisurely and languid and though this would often be a cause for concern it actually aids the casual ethos that the restaurant promotes. In a city that so often surrenders to its own manic momentum it’s refreshing to sit, socialise and simmer for a bit without rushing for the tube as soon as your bill arrives. Boisdale provides an anecdote to that frenzied disorder unfurling outside and its customers are only too happy to take refuge and ensconce themselves for hours at a time.

The Food
For starters, diver caught scallops (£13.70) are seared to perfection, averting that rubbery underbelly that spoils many a similar dish and the acidity of the accompanying avocado puree gives them a tart fizz that melts in your mouth. It’s an expensive but worthwhile treat. Foie gras parfait with tarragon and orange butter, smoked golden raisins and toasted brioche (£12.50) is less successful. The foie gras is tasty enough in itself and is surrounded by a pleasant ring of orange butter, but the tarragon is lost in translation and the sweetness of the raisins confuse and unbalance the dish.

Meat lovers are likely to marvel at the selection of mains that, though limited in number, comprise some mouthwatering alternatives. Six cuts of steak ranging from rump to rib eye and a £58 14oz fillet that’s not for the faint hearted or the tight fisted. And then there’s the holy trinity – fish of the day, game of the day and meat of the day – as if you needed another variety.

Roast grouse is game of the day and promises much at £26.50. It’s of the new season Northumberland variety and served with game crisps, bread sauce and a glass of Boisdale No. 4 claret to wash it down. There’s something decidedly primitive about such a dish as you navigate your knife through flesh and bone. The meat is succulent and tender but there’s an unpleasant, lingering bitterness that completely overpowers the dish and is only temporarily appeased by the bread sauce. Moreover, the game crisps are just crisps and add little as do the two rashers of bacon that have been unceremoniously dispatched on the plate. These little touches are confusing and whilst one would not wish to besmirch what is essentially a humble dish you’d hope for a little more ingenuity when it comes to the trimmings.

Whole Scottish lobster thermidor, griddled asparagus, watercress, shallots and jersey royals (£24) is also on the game menu. An altogether cleaner and more palatable offering, it’s the buttery, unctuous Jersey Royal potatoes that are actually the standout, boasting a rare depth of flavour. The lobster is agreeable and lifted by the sharp mustard undertones in the sauce and the asparagus is crunchy and well cooked.

Desserts are a delight. Bitter chocolate and blueberry parfait (£6.50) has a homely fruit cake texture to it. Complemented superbly by honeycomb and milk ice cream, it’s the blueberry flavour that storms through, wrapping itself around your palate. Pudding of the day (£6.50) is a decadent offering of dark and white chocolate sorbet with banana mousse and a chocolate pot served in an espresso cup, offering a glimpse of the kind of refined cooking that Boisdale’s is capable of. Presented with the aplomb of Michelin starred chefs, the sorbet is a mesmerising combination of contrasting flavours, whilst the chocolate pot is a shade on the sour side, but the banana mousse is light and luscious and the trail of juniper berry dust on the rim of the plate is a neat visual flourish.

The Drink
A seemingly interminable list of wines and whiskies are available to wash down the hearty grub. The Argentinean Coleccion Chardonnay comes in at £20.50 a bottle and is a shrewd purchase if you don’t want to send your overdraft into overdrive. It’s light and airy and seems to mesh seamlessly with pretty much every dish on offer. House reds range from £16.50 to £60 and roses are priced at £15.50 to £36 but if you’re after something a little more lavish there’s a bottle of Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 (Champagne) for £320 or a Taylor 1955 (port) for £550. And for those special members of the Boisdale jazz and cigar club there’s a list of wines to accompany a big fat Cuban, though unlike the Belgravia joint this location doesn’t have a dedicated cigar terrace.

The Last Word
Boisdale of Bishopsgate is very much a venue for a special occasion and there’s definitely a sense of theatre that surrounds the restaurant. Choose wisely from the menu and it’s more than likely you’ll take to the tartan and be charmed by these courtly chambers. A welcome diversion from the stress of City life.

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