In busy Islington, does a place really have to be the most attention seeking, headline grabbing, themed-to-the-hilt type of bar to take centre stage? Browns doesn’t seem to think so.

The Venue
Once the Angel party people have been outmanoeuvred, the location of Browns verges on peaceful. On the lowered passage behind Islington Green, the distinctive brown upon cream colour scheme holds its own. It’s fortunate to pull away from the Upper Street strip and benefits from the space with outdoor tables.

Inside, there are three smaller dining areas off the long bar room, none of which offer privacy of any sort. A touch too much in the way of dining tables and with furniture not quite elegant enough for the ambiance, the clientele are soon distracted by the trademark mirrored, dark wood bar. Beautifully kept brass and mirrors behind dark brown leather booths enhance the dining room’s depth, although the cream panelling segregating diners from bar-dwellers counters this and crams tables in too tightly.

The Atmosphere
A little too loud for an intimate dinner and too dressed down for dating, Browns best serves families and habitual types looking for the quality and reassurance of a brand name. Tourists seek that safety, too. Recognisant of the reputation they’re bound to uphold, the waiting staff have the perfect balance of familiarity and observant service with almost sixth sense timing and well rehearsed knowledge.

The Food
Despite a touch of something for everyone, a smattering of specialties stands out at Browns. Seafood is one. An ideal starter is the pan-seared scallops with bacon and sweet pepper (£8.35), with strangely but pleasantly salty, soft seafood and crisp meat. The baked Scottish langoustine in spinach, cream and Emmental (£6.95) is even better, with a slightly nutty taste to the sauce, lemony soft fish and bread for mopping.

As for the mains, seafood features again and the seafood platter (£12.50) is a great idea for those who don’t like compromise. When it comes to the meals, the American portions sadly detract from the quality and water down the overall experience. Nonetheless, the roast half of duck (£14.95) is tasty in its perfumed orange gravy and the 28 day aged rib eye (£15.75) is also a reasonable bet. Almost more impressive is that the vegetables are beautifully cooked and not overlooked.

For dessert, the Pimms jelly (£4.75) is an unusual highlight and there is also a classic cheese board for £5.95 and a good selection of digestifs.

The Drink
Browns drink menu is surprisingly good with some great options for pre-dinner drinks and cocktails. Scented with elderflower, the traditional Hendriks gin and cucumber takes on a new, feminine dimension in the Elderflower and Cucumber Collins (£5.75). The Grand Esprit with Grand Marnier and elderflower at £4 and the selection of fruit mojitos (around £6) also intrigue.

As for the wine, the list distinguishes from old and new world, shifting the focus from grape variety to origin. The house recommends some of each at various prices and it’s worth adhering to this advice. Reds range from a modest Italian Merlot Cabernet at £11.95 to the lighter, red fruit Tempranillo heavier on the pocket at £18.45. The whites are mainly dry with the exception of a Viognier (£15.95). Well selected is the Firefinch Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa (£16.95), with a distinct gooseberry tang and subtle fresh cut grass and lemons tones.

After dinner drinks include the Meantime porter-style chocolate ale (£3.50), which may just pip the chocolate and raspberry brownie, if you can’t fit both.

The Last Word
Browns delivers on service for a classic dining and drinking experience. With such attentiveness, any minor flaws in food or fluid are soon forgotten and visitors will be more than pleased.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (6)