Conran’s culinary empire may stretch far and wide, but Butlers Wharf Chop House proves there’s still merit in having a restaurant grounded close to home.

The Venue
Pronouncing itself to be thoroughly English, Butlers Wharf Chop House is laudable for its prime location. The entrance can be found in the network of cobbled streets by London Bridge Station, yet the light and airy inside is a welcome surprise. With entertaining views of the historic Tower Bridge, on sunny days it’s worth sitting out on the terrace to feast or drink next to the Thames.

The Atmosphere
That Englishness can certainly be felt, but not in that drawing room, stiff upper lip sense. It’s English in that it can do pub culture (bar, beers, open oaky tables), and it can do fine dining (flowers, fine wines, starchy white tablecloths), if you should wish. Gladly non-committal to either, it’s down to business in the day and then less formal at night when the work weary Londoners unwind with their well earned pints.

The Food
As expected, the food is familiar and comforting. There is a wealth of stocky traditional food enriched with first rate English ingredients – the fish, chips and mushy peas, the roast Suffolk pork loin, watercress mash and apple sauce, the potted Morecambe Bay shrimp all have their place on the menu. But, perhaps taking traditional a step too far, the food feels laboured and over-worked. The steak and kidney pudding with oysters was hearty, but came wrapped with dense pastry that refused to soak up the good gravy. It was difficult to derive pleasure from the apple crumble: man-sized, heavy, and in need of some sugar to sweeten the load. The set menu, at three courses for about £12.00 pounds, is extremely reasonable, however, so expect to waddle out of the restaurant.

The Drink
Alcohol is a point of pride at the Butlers Wharf Chop House. The wine selection is unbelievably extensive and the sommelier selection urges patrons to try the undiscovered grape varieties. Traditional English beers such as Curious Brew from Kent and a vast number of malt whiskys sit on the same page as the more conventional brews and soft drinks.

The Last Word
The Chop House is resting on the laurels of a winning formula. A Conran restaurant along the Thames may not be unusual, but unlike the others, modern and European, this confident restaurant stands for the successful evolution of the idea of English tradition.

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