The bigger a restaurant chain becomes, the greater the likelihood of falling standards – that’s the perceived wisdom. Hats off, then, to Carluccios. There may be over 20 branches now in London alone, but their first deli-cafe, just north of Oxford Circus, is still efficiently turning out big plates of simple, delicious Italian fare to relaxed and satisfied punters.

The Venue
Market Place is a swish little thoroughfare running parallel to the north of Oxford Street where the better type of chain restaurants cluster: Carluccios’ near neighbours include Bagelmania and Strada, for example. Expect the usual Carluccios look, i.e. a deli at the front, full of temptations, with a large, white, wood-floored dining area beyond. Industrial-style exposed pipes run along the high ceilings, and blue table tops, menus and paper napkins provide a splash of accented colour, whilst artful wall displays of balsamic vinegars and the like complete the modern Italian feel.

The Atmosphere
Even on a weeknight, there’s barely a table to be had. Young professionals dominate and look as if they purchased their outfits at the large branch of Reiss directly across the road. As with so many curtain-less, carpet-less restaurants these days, it’s hellish noisy at busy times; you and your partner will have to lean in so far to converse, your faces will almost be touching, which is great if you’re on a hot date but not so good for a pair of business colleagues. Service is well-paced and almost always accurate. The waitress appears genuinely Italian and is the epitome of impish charm.

The Food
Not much comes for free at London restaurants these days so don’t expect the menu perusal-accompanying nibbles to be complimentary. A bowl of olives is £2.25 whilst the savoury bread tin will set you back £3.25, although it is big enough for three and contains focaccia, grissini sticks, Ligurian ciappe (flatbread) and some sliced breads including one studded with sultanas. And you get to choose from butter or delightfully grassy olive oil to go with it.

There are about 15 starters, nine pasta and gnocchi options (but not a single risotto, strangely), six main courses proper, three paninis and half a dozen sides. Mushroom soup with pancetta (£4.25) is a hot and hefty bowlful made even more substantial by its accompanying focaccia doorstop. It’s a thin soup with great mushroom flavour in which big chunks of assorted fungi lurk. There are only a couple of (albeit delicious) lardoons; they probably wouldn’t be missed, and their removal would render the dish suitable for vegetarians. A rocket and parmesan salad (£3.95) is given a twist with the addition of little gem lettuce (which may well save the kitchen a bob or two, too). All the components are perfectly fine, and the dressing is pleasingly heavy on sweet balsamic.

Linguine with squid, mussels and prawns (£9.50) is a big plate of correctly al dente pasta with plenty of competently cooked seafood. The promised garlic, herbs and chilli put in only the most tentative of appearances, it’s a perfectly nice dish but could do with a bit of oomph. A fillet of sea bass (£11.75) has been accurately pan-fried in a dusting of flour which renders it golden brown and crisp. The accompanying sauteed potatoes could be a tad crisper, and the portion isn’t particularly generous. The tomato salsa, on the other hand, is a triumph, featuring cherry, semi-dried, and chopped, full-size tomatoes, just the right amount of garlic, and big, punchy herbs including parsley and basil. This is just the kind of modern, simple, fresh cooking so many of us want these days.

Onto desserts, of which there are a dozen. The ice cream selection is that tired old trio of vanilla, strawberry and chocolate, enlivened by the addition of coffee. Two scoops constitute a £3.50 portion. A scoop of coffee and one of chocolate are ordered but two scoops of chocolate arrive, the only moment of the evening when service is less than sure-footed. Very delicious, velvety, dark chocolaty ice cream it is, however, so all is forgiven. Panna cotta (£4.65) is a wobbly, creamy delight, although it’s hard to taste the promised rum flavouring. Tiny chunks of candied orange rind set it off a treat.

The Drink
The wine list is 100 percent Italian and includes seven whites, seven reds, two roses, one sparkler and one dessert, only a couple of which break the £20 barrier. Oenophiles can request special wines from a separate list. Hugely commendably, every single wine on the standard list is available by the glass.

Both the pinot Grigio (£4.10/£5.65/£15.95) and verdicchio classico (£3.70/£4.85/£13.75) are pleasant quaffers but nothing more. Similarly, the Vin Santo (£4.50/£18) is not the most unctuous or complex dessert companion you will ever sip.

Sanpellegrino is £1.85 for 500ml: litre bottles of mineral water would be a useful addition to the drinks list. There’s a reasonable selection of spirits, liqueurs and soft drinks. Teas (all a reasonable £1.45) range from English breakfast to green to fresh mint. All the usual coffee suspects appear, like cappuccino, espresso and latte, as one would hope at an Italian establishment, and all at under £2. You can have fun making bicerin (£2.45), the Turin tradition in which you mix small, separate jugs of espresso, drinking chocolate and cream at the table.

The Last Word
Carluccios has taken London – and the rest of the country – by storm, growing in just a few years to more than 40 branches nationwide. It has proved recession-proof so far too, a state of affairs which seems set to continue if the Market Square original is anything to go by. Whilst it continues to pack in the punters then send them out in the night with full stomachs, happy smiles and not unreasonably light wallets, it’s hard to foresee a slowdown in this cheerful Italian invasion of our high streets.

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