Chilango

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 18 reviews

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142 Fleet Street,
The City,
London,
EC4A 2BP

(020) 7353 6761

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMichelle Court23/10/2008
This colourful Mexican restaurant and takeaway cheers up Fleet Street with its bright decor and fresh food.

The Venue
The sister venue to Mucho Mas in Islington, Chilango (which is a Mexican slang term for someone who lives in Mexico City) is a small venue, making the most of its space with flashes of colour everywhere you look. The palette is all neon, from the high stools, to the lollipop-style flowers decorating the wall, to the series of multi-coloured cut-outs floating across the ceiling like rainbow butterflies. It’s so bright that you can’t help smiling a bit as you look around; a welcome opposite to the staid and serious atmosphere of its Fleet Street location.

Once inside Chilango there’s a series of tall countertops towards the right, flanked by colourful square stools. Towards the rear is the open kitchen, and in between is the counter where the food is ordered, created and paid for. All the ingredients are out in front, and you can specify what you do and don’t want included – kind of like a posh, Mexican Subway.

The Atmosphere
Whilst this wouldn’t be the ideal place for a long, lingering lunch, especially with the inevitable queues, the countertops and stools make for a good perch to wolf down a taco or burrito. Staff work quickly and efficiently to make the food – expert burrito folding is an envious skill.

The Food
There’s nothing fussy about the food here, and if you’ve been to a decent Mexican restaurant before there are no surprises in store on the menu. You can choose from a burrito, taco or salad made with chicken, steak, pork or a vegetarian option on a bed of rice, topped with beans and salsa, sour cream and guacamole. Depending on the filling the price is either £5.80 or £6.20, and although this may seem a bit much for a quick lunch, the burrito in particular is worth it as it’s absolutely enormous. Although the vegetarian option of red and green peppers and onions seems a bit scant, soups and sandwiches are planned for the future so hopefully veggies will get a bit more choice. Extras include tortilla chips, salsa and guacamole.

Packed in tin foil, the burritos here are mammoth. A good tip is to open the foil as you go, not all at once - unless you want the filling to end up in a splodge on your lap. The chicken option is gently spiced, whereas the braised pork is incredibly tender. White rice is used as a base for the burrito and has a light citrus flavour, so that the whole package gets an uplifting kick no matter where you take a bite. Pinto beans are hearty and savoury, whilst guacamole (an extra 80p) is a bright, vibrant green, with a smooth, cool taste. There are three types of salsa: mild, a pico de gallo made of chopped tomatoes and onions; medium, a thin, freshly spiced sauce; and chilango, the hottest flavour available. Everything is encased in a thick flour tortilla and the flavours are all fresh and surprisingly light, despite the fact that it’s incredibly hearty and filling.

The Drink
Mexican beers such as Corona are on offer for about £3, alongside water, Chegworth Valley juices and bottomless sodas. A deeply purple Agua Fresca is a traditional Mexican drink, made of pomegranate juice and hibiscus, with a delicate taste that's not too sugary.

The Last Word
With a few exceptions, Mexican restaurants in London often serve up embarrassing dishes filled with refried beans and gluey cheese. Thanks to places like Chilango, Londoners’ eyes are opening to a new Mexican food revolution. Viva el burrito!

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