A City favourite for over a decade, Coq d’Argent certainly pulls in its fair share of suits but there’s more to this place than simply being somewhere for the work hard, play hard lot.

The Venue
Sitting atop 1 Poultry, Coq d’Argent has some pretty impressive views across the Square Mile, not least from a very popular alfresco area that’s fit to bursting come summertime. Inside is divided into two, with one side playing host to a restaurant that’s every bit the refined French affair, and the other a more informal brasserie and bar that bubbles along with, predominantly, those eschewing the food for a few continental lagers or very nice glasses of wine. For most though, it’s all about the restaurant, where immaculate white finery, big and comfy seating, buffed woods and more great views give an indicator as to why this place remains such a draw.

The Atmosphere
That brasserie and bar really does get busy, especially later on in the week when it can border on the positively raucous. The restaurant is altogether more civilised though, with plenty of business folk looking serious (bar the chap with chin in chest, somehow asleep at the table), complemented by a surprising number of people who look like they’ve come from further afield – proof that this place has enough about it to work as a destination restaurant too. Most of the atmosphere comes from what appears to be very free-flowing conversation but the staff do their bit too, it’s just a shame that service falls down a couple of times, most notably when first courses arrive at the table before the wine’s even been chosen – an awkward slip.

The Food
Mickael Weiss has been heading up the kitchen here for over ten years but the menu still feels fresh, with a fair few updates over the years to keep regular diners intrigued. It’s essentially classic French cooking with a few modern twists, and it’s also pretty darn good, with a few genuine highlights and very few low ones.

An eggs benedict starter (£9.75) is a beautiful little plate of coddled hen’s egg, wafer thin, crispy ham and tomato compote, and whilst it doesn't quite pack the hollandaise punch of their breakfast version, it does look very pretty indeed. The crab salad (£12) fares much better, with the sweetness of the well-sourced meat working especially well with basil, black olives and tomato.

Straw baked Salt Marsh rump of lamb (£25.50) is superb, cooked perfectly pink and served with a richly flavoured fennel and courgette puree, minted yoghurt and a little tower of fondant potato. The main course to go for though is the pork (£24), where a generous bit of fillet sits alongside some suckling belly (with some phenomenally good crackling), with octopus, almonds and some seriously good chorizo, all offset perfectly by a well-judged drizzle of spicy and sweet honey.

It’s a French restaurant, so understandably the desserts are exceptional. The pear and salted caramel mousse with chocolate sorbet and a long pin of salted nougatine (£7) is almost worth the trip alone, but the cheese selection is, if anything, even better, with a good choice of French cheeses offered on a huge board by a knowledgeable waiter. Go for the Cendré de Champagne and the Munster-géromé if you like strong cheeses – these are both exquisite.

The Drinks
Depending on which side of the fence you sit, you’ll either find the huge wine list expensive and a little bit daunting, or simply a superb showcase of a venue that takes its wine very seriously indeed. You get the impression that those whacking the whole thing on expenses will love ostentatiously thumbing through the hefty forty eight pages looking for something that tickles their biscuits, but those that aren't well-versed in matters-wine might find it hard to find something they like and, more importantly, can afford.

Leave it in the hands of the affable (albeit slow) sommelier and you should be okay though, with the bins from the Loire representing probably the best value. There’s a lovely Sancerre from Lucien Crochet at £50, but this is actually one of the cheaper options, with a surprising number heading well into the hundreds. Still, there’s obviously plenty of demand for them and if you do want to keep things slightly cheaper then there are certainly enough by the glass and by the half bottle options available. You just have to find them.

The Last Word
Brilliant food and an inclusive atmosphere that belies the location, Coq d’Argent shouldn’t be seen as merely the preserve of City workers. There’s a reason it’s still this busy, and long may it continue.

To read Mickael Weiss' guide to London, please click here

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