The Casino at the Empire,
5-6 Leicester Square,
Leicester Square,
London,
WC2H 7NA
(020) 3014 1000
The ViewLondon Review
There are some moments in life that scream out for a night of sheer unadulterated luxury. Your customised Aston Martin finally arriving after years on the waiting list, a hefty bonus following months of hard graft, rites of passage like the birth of your first bundle of joy or even something as simple as payday after a month-end spent scrabbling around in the freezer for long forgotten ready meals.The VenueWhen those moments arrive, where you choose to celebrate them is crucial. And, whilst a casino restaurant may initially seem like a ludicrous choice, on closer inspection Flame proves that there are few other top London restaurants that are quite so fitting. Housed in the luxurious Casino at the Empire which presides over Leicester Square it certainly ticks the box when it comes to the all-important Central London location. Combine that with impeccably friendly service, opulent surroundings and exceptional food and it quickly becomes clear why Flame regulars are already desperate to keep this superb destination restaurant to themselves.
The AtmosphereFlame oozes understated luxury and attention to detail but far from the restaurant being intimidating, it actually strives to draw you in with its genuinely welcoming atmosphere. Contemporary touches such as heavy glass tiles for side plates are offset against a dark colour palette of smooth black marble, rich clarets and sleek mahogany. Preferring to serve half as many customers as they have covers for at any given time, table bookings are staggered throughout the night so that every diner receives a superb level of service and given the satisfied smiles it certainly seems to be working.
Couples enjoying a romantic night out take centre stage in the middle of the cosy room whilst larger groups are seated at plush banquette seating running the length of both sides of the room. Regulars aren’t simply on first name terms with the staff - if they’re enjoying a night out at the tables on the casino floor, rather than interrupt their run of luck for any length of time they simply pop in to the restaurant to order, safe in the knowledge that the staff will track them down to escort them back to Flame when their food is ready.
The FoodHowever, it’s the food that really ensures that Flame leads the pack. Predominantly a grill, red meat lovers are certainly in their element here. The beef is flown in fresh from the United States every day and, whilst the restaurant may well have to start planting swathes of trees to counter its carbon footprint, the meat certainly stands up to scrutiny.
Starters are perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented especially the sweetcorn chowder with fresh crab, served piping hot with a swirl of lobster oil, crisp baby peas offsetting the tender crab meat. Main courses are equally flawless and generously sized. Particularly recommended is the Irish Kettyle Beef Tenderloin, bred in Ireland and aged on the bone for 21 days, accompanied by balsamic roasted shallots, Parmesan potatoes, sauteed cepes and garlic confit.
The steaks are equally as good, the USDA 10 oz Sirloin is cut from prime approved, hormone free, corn fed beef from Nebraska. Don’t be surprised to find yourself double taking if you’ve ordered the beef - the meat is so tender your knife will glide rather than slice. For non meat eaters the options are plentiful including a daily changing market catch and vegetarian dishes. The food isn’t cheap with some main courses edging past the £20 mark but the quality is indisputable. Finish the meal with a slice of slow baked New York cheesecake, delicious although slightly less inspired than the starters and main courses.
The DrinkThe wines are selected to perfectly complement the courses and the restaurant manager is always happy to oblige with knowledgeable suggestions if you’re unsure or fancy trying something new. Unsurprisingly, given the grill leanings of the restaurant, red wines are generally the most popular and a bottle of full bodied Argentinian red will bring out the flavour of the beef perfectly. Champagne is always on hand to help celebrate a successful flutter in the casino or you can always retire to Mocha (the coffee and ice cream bar) for an after dinner cappuccino.
The Last WordFlame may be expensive but there are few London restaurants that can match its calibre. The food is flawless, the service impeccable and the casino surroundings certainly supply the wow factor. Put simply, for special occasions, pound for pound Flame is worth every penny. When it comes to coffee and dessert though, head to the Mocha ice cream bar to watch the roulette wheels spinning beneath your feet.