Old Spitalfields Market,
8 Horner Square,
Spitalfields,
London,
E1 6AA
0800 019 1704
The ViewLondon Review
In the past year, things have been shaken up at Le Bouchon Breton, with a new head chef and a more affordable menu. These changes might have been a commercial coup d’état, but there is now little to make the restaurant stand out.
The Venu
Sister to Le Bouchon Bordelais in Clapham, the Breton was opened in 2008 by ‘ex money broker’ Ian Stoppani. Take what you will from his job title, but the slick Spitalfields location must have been chosen with the wealth of the square mile in mind. The restaurant is tucked up on the upper floor in one of the modern, angular units at the western end of the market. It has a small terrace where you can gaze down on the stalls, or over towards the garish lights of Las Iguanas, if that takes your fancy.
The Atmosphere
There’s nothing too original about the layout inside, bar a rather nice art deco mirror behind the bar. From the burgundy banquettes to the chequered floor, Le Bouchon offers smart and sanitised bistro dining. The mix of bare tables and reasonably bright lighting also make it a rather masculine space. When it comes to the waiting staff, however, some attentive service and plenty of enthusiasm go a long way towards making diners feel welcome.
The Food
Christophe Diettrich is now the man in the kitchen. Fresh from stints at several different Chez Gérard braches, his résumé can only indicate the style Le Bouchon is aiming for. True to form, all the old favorites appear on the menu (from moules to escargot), plus a few more slightly unusual options where the restaurant seems to be trying to show some individuality.
The Korean sous-chef came up with the novel tuna carpaccio and foie gras starter. It’s a nice idea and arrives beautifully presented, but the execution needs refinement. Anything this incongruous on a Breton menu needs to be pretty incredible, but sadly the delicate flavours are quickly wiped out by the pepper crust on the tuna. Other starters (£5–£9) are much more traditional, with the pleasantly unrefined duck rillettes definitely worth a try.
The desert menu – as all good French desert menus should – offers various calorie-laden patisserie and ice-cream delights that would send Gillian McKeith running for the hills. If you can’t manage a mound of profiteroles, try the sharp, caramelised lemon tart, served with a contrastingly super-sweet coulis. Prices range between around £7 and £9.
The Drink
Le Bouchon Breton's wine list is nothing groundbreaking, with a strong leaning towards classic French regions. It is, though, keen to defy the recession, it seems - not many casual restaurants list a bemusing ten different bottles of Tokaji (up to an eye-watering £260). If you’d rather buck the trend and dare to venture into the new world, the Finca La Linda Malbec (£23) is a pleasingly fruity option, though it lacks the structure that would make it a better accompaniment for the steaks.
The Last Word
Offering affordable, generously sized dishes along with a wine list that would keep even the flashiest big spenders happy, Le Bouchon Breton is certainly eager to please. But despite the good intentions and ebullient staff, it’s an unexceptional option ideal for an easy post-work dinner or mid-market refuel.