Warwick Court, Paternoster Square,
St Pauls,
London,
EC4M 7DX
0871 971 3460
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
From the stable of restaurant group D&D London, this former Conran restaurant is an aesthetically pleasing venue serving up an array of traditional British cuisine to suit anyone’s palate.
The Venue
Set on Warwick Court with stunning views of St Paul’s, arguably one of the most infamous London attractions, Paternoster Chop House benefits from an amazing backdrop. There’s a pretty outside terrace which looks on to the courtyard with robust chairs and tables that are reflected in the approach to its cooking. Inside, stone-like paving is set off against neutral colours on one side whilst on the other a row of narrow light wood tables are coupled with plush red banquettes that really blend well together.
The Atmosphere
As this is in close proximity to the City don’t be alarmed that you’ll be mixing with City boys and girls alike discussing about the latest deal that they have struck. The staff do their best to accommodate your needs. There’s a certain buzz about this venue as the idle chatter of diners is drowned out by the clinking of glasses and people simply having fun.
The Food
The restaurant has a seasonally changing menu as well as set menus and Sunday lunch choices. For starters Parsnip & honey soup is a winning combination and the glaze that appears on the soup is sublime. The sweetness comes through at the end and is a really good winter warmer. The Bradan Orach smoked salmon breaded fishcake is served with a homemade tartare sauce. You can instantly tell the quality of the salmon and every mouthful represents how fresh and carefully picked the fish is.
Mains offer up venison sausages with a rich onion gravy and homemade mash. The meat is extremely lean and is well cooked and will win over many fans young and old after a real British classic. The aptly named Beast of the Day is an unmissable highlight, fresh meat that’s bought on the bone and cut up in house. This is what’s called White Park beef with its roots to be considered as the origin of the sirloin steak. This is hand reared by a Suffolk farmer and is served with a creamy beetroot horseradish and breadcrumbs. A side worth shouting about is the parsnip fluff which is as light as a feather.
If you have room and you can manage to walk without rolling out of the restaurant then try the plum sorbet with stewed plums. This unusual concoction is at first a little unfamiliar to get used to but works if you give it a chance. The lemon cheesecake is sharp and tangy and the candied lemon accompaniment provides that last little bit of tang to what is a well executed dish.
The Drink
The gutsy food is also reflected in the drinks list at Paternoster Chop House. Meanwhile the choice of specialty lagers, ales and cider parade their respect to classic British alcohol. There is also an extensive range of whiskies, ports, and sherryies to tickle anyone’s fancy. With a heavy influence on good quality French wines from the Loire Valley to Burgundy, a bottle of 2006 Pinot Gris from New Zealand has aromas of white peach and nectarine and at £36 is an indulgence that’s worth every drop. Sample one of the many bottled beers ales and cider available from the Yorkshire pale ale blends of Timothy Taylor and Sam Smiths to an award winning, silky guest beer entitled The Courage.
The Last Word
Paternoster Chop House is a winning formula across the board. Location wise it may not be ideal for a quick meal but this doesn’t detract from an excellent culinary journey.