A popular Canary Wharf dining destination, Plateau offers a buzzing atmosphere and striking views.

The Venue
On the fourth floor of Canada Place, right above the Waitrose and Reebok, Plateau has a prime spot perched over Canada Square. To get to the restaurant you’ll have to spot the lifts at the entrance to Waitrose, and the change in environment from a busy supermarket in a shopping centre to a sleek bar and restaurant is a pleasant surprise. There are three distinct areas, each with slightly different décor: the bar area towards the front; the laid back, slightly more casual bar and grill; and the formal restaurant, decorated with marble tables and white chairs. The look is minimalist and there’s no real artwork to speak of, as the main attraction is the view from the floor to ceiling windows. It’s particularly nice at night, with the lights twinkling in the distance.

The Atmosphere
There’s a great buzz at Plateau, and its reputation guarantees that the crowds keep pouring in, even early on in the week. Expect couples on dates, large groups (celebrating anything from business deals to birthdays) and, though the clientele is predominantly older, the occasional family as well. Service is swift and staff are polite, maintaining their cool and charm even when the night is at its most hectic.

The Food
The restaurant and bar and grill have different menus, with the bar and grill being more casual and easier on the wallet. The restaurant offers a set menu of £25 for two courses and £27.50 for three, but otherwise you’re looking at paying between about £5 and £15 for starters and £14 and £28 for mains. Both areas have the same buzz and, importantly, the same view, so you’ll have a similar experience no matter where you sit.

From the a la carte menu, a starter of gazpacho soup is simple and fresh, with a slight tang. A platter of smoked salmon from London’s own H. Forman & Son is also simple, served with capers and thin slices of rye bread. The salmon itself is outstanding, with a rich, smoky-sweet flavour. A main course of cod with aubergine tapenade is well cooked, the tapenade adding a tart sweetness, and a scattering of aubergine crisps is a nice touch. The lamb, served two ways, is perfectly cooked to medium rare and a slick of carrot puree is rich in flavour and colour. A side of potatoes are also good, not too crispy and slightly salty.

For dessert, the classic French Ile Flottante is delightfully soft. A strawberry trio, which consists of strawberries and strawberry sorbet, a strawberry macaroon and strawberry mousse, and a basil, tapioca, basalmic vinegar and strawberry shot, is a great mix of classic and inventive creations.

The Drink
A large bar menu includes a long list of spirits plus cocktails, from about £9 to £11. The wine list is as long as you’d expect for Canary Wharf, with bottles from about £18 to well into the hundreds. There’s a large amount of choices by the glass, including a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Spain (£7.75) and a spicy French Merlot (£4.35). The Chablis (£9.15) is a strong match for the salmon and, for other fish dishes, the Italian Vermentino (£8.25) is also recommended.

The Last Word
Although pricey, Plateau’s target clientele aren’t that worried about breaking out their charge cards for a treat. If you can manage to get a table by the window on a busy night, you won’t be disappointed.

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