54 Islington Park Street,
Islington,
London,
N1 1PX
(020) 7359 6070
The ViewLondon Review
Obviously Islington, yet away from the Upper Street hubbub, Public House offers good food, excellent cocktails and plenty to peruse in N1.
The Venue
Towards the Highbury end of Upper Street, and set down a side road, Public House is the kind of place those Islington folk bored with the same old, same old towards Angel are no doubt keeping quiet about. The unassuming, almost twee, exterior leads into a venue that seems to mismatch, juxtapose and contrast pretty much anything it can get its hands on, so expect to see battered leather seating, oriental rugs, rustic wooden tables, contemporary prints, clothes stands, Seventies lampshades, brass cupids, huge gilded mirrors and probably a whole lot more. Somehow these combinations work well though; it doesn’t feel confused and thanks probably to the understated distribution of all these bits and bobs, you feel intrigued, rather than bamboozled. Even if Kermit the Frog’s dead eyes staring at you in the dining room mirror is a little disconcerting.
The Atmosphere
This comfortingly perusable interior makes things instantly informal, but if that’s still not enough then the staff will make you feel at home. They might first appear almost ambivalent with their nonchalant public school drawl but deep down you can tell they’re enthusiastic, friendly and incredibly knowledgeable about what they’re selling. At the bar there’s considerable expertise and advice on cocktails, whilst in the dining room there are recommendations, excellent service and just the right amount of making sure everything’s okay. And it usually is, especially if the happy mix of late 20s to early 30s clientele are anything to go by as they coo and ah at what’s laid out before them, smiles illuminated by the flicker of dripping candles stuffed into waxy wine bottles.
The Food
Chastised in the past for applying the same ethos to their food as their décor, Public House now boasts a menu full of more conventional combinations, with an emphasis on good quality produce cooked well. It works too, even if some might feel it’s bordering on being expensive, even for Islington. The English ham starter (£7) is an excellent introduction, with plenty of flavoursome ham served with leek, hazelnuts and a light truffle dressing that brings everything together nicely. The salmon tartar (£7.50) is even better, with a deliciously light and zesty mix of salmon, chives, dill and shallots served with a light lemon sauce. The accompanying breaded prawn is overcooked but inconsequential anyway.
Mains are very impressive, with the Elwy Valley lamb (£18) being a particular highlight. Exquisitely cooked lamb that goes from a thin layer of crispy fat to a succulent pink flesh is very, very tender, and complemented well with artichoke, fennel and lemon. The stonebass (or wreakfish; £15) is excellent too, with impeccably cooked fish that flakes from the fork served with carrots and the gentlest hint of orange. Desserts are certainly worth saving room for, with the chocolate orange (£5.50) boasting a small slab of chocolate brownie covered with a sweet orange jelly and some very creamy orange and vanilla ice cream. The cheese plate (£8.50) is good value, with generous chunks of Stinking Bishop, brie, stilton, cheddar and emmental served with onion relish and some spongy brown bread that’s adequate but no more than.
The Drink
With Public House being just as good for drinking as it is for dining, there’s no surprise to see a solid selection of drinks on the bill, with cocktails perhaps playing the leading role. They’re made with aplomb as well as passion, with classic concoctions sitting next to more creative ones such as the house speciality (£8), which sees champagne, homemade vanilla bitters and fig liqueur served over a sugar cube rubbed with lemon zest in a martini glass. Very tasty.
The wine list is giddying, though there are handy and accurate descriptions of each option, making things a little simpler. The list goes from a very good house red, the plumy, peppery Tuella Douro Tinto 2008 to more extravagant options such as Sanguine shiraz at £39 and full bodied Bordeauxs at £45. There’s a surprisingly lengthy list of champagnes that include Bollingers, Pol Rogers and Krugs, but if you just want a beer the choice is no less extensive, with Brooklyn Lager (£3.75), Stiegl (£3.75), Sierra Nevada Bigfoot (£4.50) and the somewhat confidently monikered, God Lager (£4.20) being just some of those on offer.
The Last Word
If you’ve spent too long squeezing past the shirts and shoes on the main drag then you might fancy your chances up the other end of Upper Street. If you do, make a beeline for Public House and you’ll be well rewarded.