Iconic buildings call for impressive dining and few London landmarks can compete with the cachet of St Paul’s Cathedral. The Restaurant at St. Pauls offers the opportunity to dine alongside a roll call of historical greats including Admiral Lord Nelson and Joseph Turner. However, can the food live up to such formidable company?

The Venue
Located in the crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral, the restaurant is a strong contender for one of the most unique dining experiences in the capital. A sure fire hit with history buffs, even if you haven’t first developed a crick in your neck staring up at the famous domed ceiling of Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece or worked up an appetite climbing the 530 steps to The Golden Gallery to enjoy its panoramic views of London, the fact that you’re dining in the cathedral’s crypt is more than reason enough to be slightly awed.

For all of its historical wow factor, the subterranean location of The Restaurant at St Pauls could have worked against it. Thankfully, it hasn’t and although passers-by peering in through the lone window set high up in the wall, close to the ceiling is slightly unnerving it’s a small price to pay for such atmospheric dining. The lack of natural light has been countered with a warm glow and the imposing, cavernous crypt that’s mere moments away from the restaurant’s doors seems a world apart from the cosy, kitchen farmhouse styling and simple brick walls that are painted the same colour as the clotted cream accompanying their afternoon tea. Seating is arranged over an earthenware tiled ground floor and a mezzanine level carpeted with sea grass matting which is a simple touch that succeeds in softening the high ceilinged space. In fact, wherever you look the same keen attention to detail is evident – from the bare oak tables that are set with mismatched antique cutlery and simple slate place mats to the cartoon reproductions on the walls.

The Atmosphere
During the latter part of the afternoon, groups of friends opting for afternoon tea are the norm, their conversations leisurely and wide ranging. The state of the economy, little known facts about St Paul’s Cathedral and plans for the rest of the week are all covered off over the most traditional of English pastimes. At lunchtime, dates sit alongside City suits, all savouring the unhurried enjoyment of simple, quality ingredients.

The Food
The British food menu uses London suppliers wherever possible – honey hails from their own hives in Regent’s Park, fruit and veg comes from Covent Garden’s Kirbys and Chalk Farm’s Fulberg family supply the smoked salmon. Quintessentially British dishes are given a quirky twist throughout the menu starting with radishes which is The Restaurant at St Pauls alternative to olives although you will also find them on the menu. The bright pink radishes arrive accompanied by a shallow dish of salt and a pot of homemade salad cream and cost just £3. Side orders of runner beans (the vegetable’s unique slightly rough texture made silky thanks to plenty of melted butter), an organic wild leaf salad and buttered Jersey Royal potatoes are also priced at £3. The menu is then priced at a reasonable £16 for two courses and £20 for three which considering its location and the quality of the food, is incredibly good value.

For starters, the slab of Montgomery cheddar and onion pie that arrives on a wooden board is a twist on a traditional quiche. The buttery golden pastry has a shiny glaze that nods to rudimentary good health and hearty appetites and the strong taste of the Montgomery cheddar in the warm filling is countered with the sweet caramel of the onions. If you’d prefer something lighter, the spears of asparagus which are drenched in lightly salted butter and topped with a large poached Gressingham duck’s egg is a superb choice. The spears are chunky enough to mop up the runny yolk that oozes out as you cut the poached egg open and the portion is generous enough to not seem like second best even considering the size of the slice of cheddar and onion pie.

The main courses offer plenty of choice too. The warm chicken salad uses plenty of radicchio to add interest. The sharp taste of the leaves contrast well against the large pieces of shredded chicken breast, al dente green beans, toasted pine nuts and the currants from the sherry currant dressing that’s drizzled over it. The cheerful combination of colours ranging from purples to bright greens also make the dish inviting. Unfortunately, the colour palette of the roasted grey mullet that’s served with artichokes and broad beans is less inspiring. The colours are muted and insipid – the white and grey of the fish need a vibrant splash of colour to save the presentation of the dish from monotony and unfortunately, artichoke and broad beans aren’t ingredients that are up to the job. However, appearances aside, when it comes to the taste test it holds up well. The plump fillet of grey mullet is delicately cooked so that the flavour of the fish is the focus of the dish and the dryness of the broad beans merely serve to highlight how succulent it is whilst the waxy flowers of the artichoke complement the smoother textures of the other elements of the dish.

The traditional recipes continue when it comes to dessert. If you’re not that hungry, opt for the selection of British cheeses which offers moderately sized slices of British cheeses. However, you’ll find it hard to be restrained with the likes of gooseberry cobbler and Regent’s Park honey ice and gingerbread sandwich on the menu. The honey ice and gingerbread sandwich resembles a cross between a sophisticated, more grown up version of an Arctic Roll and a wafer ice cream sandwich. Two thick slices of ginger cake sandwich in a large layer of ice cream that’s spicy enough to not seem sickly even when you finish the last spoonful of the generous portion.

The Drink
Presses and a wide selection of teas that are popular to accompany lighter meals make way for a well thought out wine list at lunchtime. It’s nice to find plenty of British bins on the menu and the wine list includes a white and rose Winchcombe Downs 2008 from Gloucestershire and a Chapel Down Brut NV from Kent. Start the meal with their delicious take on a pre-dinner cocktail that’s called Britain In A Glass (£8). Carter’s English sparkling wine is combined with rhubarb and apple juice and it’s a refreshing summery alternative to a Bellini. If you’re after a full bodied red however, venture beyond British shores and opt for a Malbec that’s served in a stemless glass for the ultimate in comfort drinking.

The Last Word
Opening a restaurant in surroundings as impressive as those of St Paul’s is a risk as the cathedral has the potential to overshadow even the most dedicated of chefs. However, The Restaurant at St Pauls has for the most part risen to the challenge. With its emphasis on wholesome British cooking with a twist and fresh, locally sourced ingredients even the most mundane of meals becomes a praiseworthy occasion - whether you’re taking time out for afternoon tea or working your way through a leisurely three courses.

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