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Stanza Restaurant and Late Night Bar

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93-107 Shaftesbury Avenue,
Soho,
London,
W1D 5DY

0871 971 6226
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byEmma Harper05/03/2010
A stone’s throw away from the theatres of the West End, Stanza combines contemporary seasonal British cuisine with an impressive cocktail list, making it the perfect for a pre theatre dinner or after show tipple.

The Venue
Although Stanza has a prime location in the heart of Theatreland on the corner of Shaftesbury Avenue and Greek Street – if you weren’t looking for it, you might not notice it was there. The street level entrance is small, unassuming and suggests nightclub more than restaurant. Head upstairs, however, and the space is surprisingly large, split into separate bar and restaurant areas. The restaurant is comprised mostly of large curved booths, ideal for small groups of diners. The decor is modern with dark wood furnishings, elegant but uninspiring.

The Atmosphere
The large floor to ceiling windows look down onto the hustle and bustle of the neon-lit street below but inside Stanza you can’t help but feel a little removed from the atmosphere outside. Early on in the evening it can feel quite soulless, although as the night moves on the music gets louder and once again Stanza begins to feel more like a nightclub than a venue for fine dining. It’s hard to categorise the demographic at Stanza. Part pre-theatre dining venue and part late night cocktail bar, it attracts an eclectic mix of customers that morphs as the night progresses.

The service at Stanza can’t be faulted. From the moment you are shown to your table to the time you leave the staff are attentive, professional and friendly. They are knowledgeable about the menu, happy to recommend and take a genuine pride in providing good customer service. This helps to set La Stanza apart from many of the neighbouring eateries in this part of town.

The Food
The menu at Stanza is short but still offers plenty of choice. The winter menu uses seasonal produce to create contemporary takes on comforting British dishes. The ham hock and foie gras terrine with cranberry chutney (£11) is an excellent example of this. A rough textured terrine served with grilled bread and a sweet and spicy chutney, this dish is both simple and indulgent. If you’re after something more unusual then the pan fried chicken liver salad (£10) comes highly recommended. The liver is crisp on the outside and smooth and creamy in the centre and the contrasting flavours of the sweet quince, subtle hazelnut dressing and peppery rocket combine to make a memorable starter.

The main courses are beautifully presented. The poached salmon (£18) is surrounded by mussels, still in their shells, on top of a leek and Champagne sauce, decorated on top with curled parsnip crisps. The salmon is cooked on the rare side, soft and pink in the middle and the sauce is rich and incredibly moreish. The mussels are of excellent quality, small but plump and meaty. The confit duck leg (£17) is served with braised red cabbage and thyme potatoes. A host of strong and rich flavours come together in perfect balance, of which the crispy duck skin is a highlight. Make sure you save room for at least one dessert and make it the chocolate brownie (£5.50). A favourite amongst the staff and customers alike, this wickedly rich warm gooey brownie served with burnt ice cream, made on the premises, is the perfect way to end your meal.

The Drink
Stanza has an extensive and varied cocktail list that encompasses classic cocktails with house specialities and concoctions from mixologists from around the world, from the bars of New York to Soho’s Lab. The Earl Grey Martini (£9) is one of the more unusual choices combining and Earl Grey infused gin, lemon juice and egg white to create a dry but refreshing pre dinner choice. If you like the idea of alcoholic tea then this one is definitely for you.

The wine list also offers a good selection of white and red by the glass and bottle. The prices start from a very reasonable £18 a bottle going up to £55, and from £4.50 to £6.50. The Sauvingnon Blanc at £25 a bottle is crisp and dry and represents good value for money. Champange is also on offer, ranging in price from £60 for a bottle of Mumm to £500 for a bottle of Ace of Spades.

The Last Word
With fabulous cocktails and high quality food at reasonable prices, Stanza has the potential to be something very special but whilst it continues to try to be all things to all people, some customers may find it just a little too confused for comfort.

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