With a unique menu contrasting happily with solid, dependable decor, Texture offers something for all tastes.

The Venue
Although a Best Western isn’t the most glamorous of hotels a restaurant like Texture could be attached to, no doubt it’s a very pleasant surprise for unsuspecting hotel guests expecting a typical Central London hotel restaurant. Although it’s not the largest of spaces, Texture makes up for its size by having enormous ceilings that look as if they belong in a museum rather than a hotel restaurant. The restaurant is divided up into two distinct spaces, with a small lounge bar area in the front and a dining area towards the back, behind which is a semi-open kitchen where you can peek through to the chefs meticulously constructing their creations.

Despite having some quirky touches, like a glass cabinet full of what looks like driftwood and some colourful paintings of mountains (perhaps depicting chef Aggi Sverrisson’s native Iceland), Texture is a very serious looking place, with thick black tables and low brown leather seats. Everything is just so, from the large, bright plates that are whisked away before the starters to the intricately placed cutlery.

The Atmosphere
Texture has recently won a Michelin star and as such you can expect a predominance of posh foodies keen to try the restaurant’s acclaimed cuisine. Local property moguls mix with couples on dates whilst fashion photographers chat with willowy young women over cod skin crisps. Service is spot on, attentive but not too forward – this is the kind of place where your water glass is filled before you even notice it’s empty. Without a crowd, Texture feels a bit too hushed but once the lunch rush arrives things warm up nicely.

The Food
There’s a variety of menus at Texture which cater to the cash conscious (the lunch menu is £18.50 and £22 for two and three courses respectively), vegetarians or gourmands along with the regular a la carte menu. A five course Rejuvenation Menu, designed to refresh and promote well being, costs £39.50 and is available until mid-February. You’ll notice a juxtaposition between locally sourced British and Icelandic meat and fish, the latter courtesy of the chef’s native country. Presentation is gloriously beautiful, almost like a work of art. Dishes are colourful and intricately placed, with each and every element there for a reason.

Things start well with a warm, freshly baked brown bread and a bowl of very crisp, thin puffs of bread and the aforementioned cod skin, which doesn’t taste anywhere as strange as it sounds and has an almost crumbly, poppadom-like texture. Two generous bowls of dip are delicious. An amuse bouche of smoked salmon with creamy mustard will give you a hint of the ingenuity of what’s to come – the smoked salmon flakes beautifully and a tiny dollop of cucumber reduction gives freshness and contrasting colour.

A starter of Scottish scallops served with Cornish crab (£16.50) continues the mix of colour, flavour and – it goes without saying – texture. Two plump scallops are cooked perfectly, slightly caramelised on top just as they should be, and the crab is presented as a little scoop at the edge of the plate – almost like a very creamy crab salad. The rest of the flavours in the dish have an Asian edge, with lime leaves, tart ginger shreds and cashews and miniature mushrooms scattered next to fluffy shavings of coconut ice. The English quail starter is also brilliant, a vivid mix of reds, browns and yellows consisting of sweetcorn, sweetcorn puree, light popcorn flecked with pieces of bacon and several pieces of quail, which are all well cooked and tender right down to the tiny leg.

The venison at £28.50 is pricey but it’s also immensely satisfying and likely to be one of the best examples of the dish you’ll ever eat. Served on a plate decorated with a swish of very dark chocolate, slices are venison loin are decadently juicy, soft and ever so slightly pink. Tangy red cabbage and vividly green sprouts complete the dish. Cornish sea bream (£21.50) features layered pieces of the fish amongst big chunks of aubergine in a slightly vinegary sauce with nicely cooked squid.

After a pre-dessert of granita balanced on bowls of dry ice, Icelandic skyr (which sounds like a fish but is actually a type of soft cheese that tastes similar to plain yoghurt) arrives, mixed with granola – like a very posh breakfast. Other desserts (£8.50) include the Valrhona chocolate, made with a perfectly round scoop of chocolate nestled amidst milky foam bubbles. The pieces of parsnip don’t really work, however, and unfortunately look like slices of butter which is a bit off-putting. The mango and pineapple soup is light and fragrant, and, with the addition of a slightly sharp Thai basil ice cream, refreshing after a heavy meal. If you still have room, however, petits fours are as creative as you’d expect, with the highlights being strands of burnt sugar and Fisherman’s Friend flavoured meringues.

The Drink
Texture takes great pride in their wine list, as they should – co-owner Xavier Rousset is an award-winning sommelier. The list is large, but not unmanageable, and although there are only about a dozen choices by the glass (from £5) each of those is available by the half bottle (from £14.50) as well. Although you’ll struggle to find a bottle under £20 there are quite a few in the £20 to £50 range, and staff are very good at matching your drink to your meal in order to best complement the flavours of the food and the wine. Old and new world are both well represented, with an emphasis on France, but there are some lesser known countries, such as Greece and Austria, on the list as well. The Champagne list is truly extensive, with nearly 90 bottles available including English, Spanish and Italian sparkling wine.

The Last Word
When everything on your plate looks like a work of art, you know you’re in for an out-of-the-ordinary dining experience. Although it may seem slightly fussy to some, you have to admire the ingenuity involved in every aspect of the menu. Definitely worth a visit if you’re interested in sampling some original – and beautiful – cuisine.

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