The Curtains Up

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 2 reviews

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28a Comeragh Road,
Kensington,
London,
W14 9HR

0872 148 1506
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byAmelia Bate03/08/2009
This theatre pub combines a homely ambience with modern style. Fresh coffee, weekly quiz nights, regularly changing real ale, sport screenings and decent menus give it all the ingredients to become a staple part of the community.

The Venue
Situated directly above Barons Court Theatre, The Curtains Up is divided into a number of distinct areas each offering something different. The main drinking area has high ceilings and tall windows on two sides, allowing in plenty of light. A central circular bar takes pride of place with banquettes, tall tables and their accompanying high stools, lower level tables and rustic brown wool and tartan chairs and sofas providing a mixture of seating.

The restaurant area is a smaller space with wooden work benches and tables of different sizes and a cosy assortment of chairs gathered around an original fireplace. Throughout the venue, the decor is shabby chic, with furniture, fixtures and fittings inspired by the local environment. The rustic style is integrated with more modern and idiosyncratic design features – contemporary light fixtures, brightly coloured lampshades and a giant fork and spoon feature alongside floral walls, huge brass mirrors, birdcages and wooden bookcases. Plasma screens are well positioned in each area to screen live sport whenever major events take place.

Step downstairs into the cellar and vaults below (past ‘trousers down’ and ‘skirts up’ toilets), and you’ll find the intimate fringe theatre. Here you can see a wide range of different shows, from comic monologues and dramas to Shakespearean satire.

The Atmosphere
With its mix of homely furniture and modern touches, The Curtains Up fosters a bohemian atmosphere and is well positioned to attract a fairly diverse clientele – from friends indulging in a couple of glasses of wine after work and locals stopping in for a pint on the way home to families out for a casual celebratory meal.

As befitting a theatre pub that’s based near the London Academy of Music and Dramatic Art (LAMDA), The Curtains Up encourages a lively thespian crowd. It provides a range of pre- and post-theatre menus, as well as allowing snacks to be ordered for intervals – a nice incentive for hungry punters wishing to take in the cultural offerings downstairs.

The Food
The seasonally changing menu focuses on traditional British pub meals made with good quality ingredients, with a few more unusual dishes thrown into the mix.

Starters are priced at £4.50-£6.50 with typical offerings including soup of the day, classic prawn cocktail, and salmon and haddock fishcakes served with spinach and butter sauce. A creamy, smooth chicken liver pate has a satisfying texture, served with two pieces of smoky brown toast and a fruity homemade chutney completing the earthy flavour of the pate. Alternatively, the eggs benedict comes with thickly sliced ham and a fresh hen’s egg served on a round chargrilled roll. Homemade Hollandaise sauce adds a finishing touch, its rich, creamy flavour piquing the tastebuds for the main course.

For mains, dishes include: beer battered fish and chips, tartare sauce and crushed peas; roast corn fed chicken with potato gratin and fennel; and curry of the day with naan bread and yoghurt. Prices range from £7.75-£14.95. The grilled dry aged rib eye steak is an excellent cut of meat, prepared in Geronimo Inns’ central butchery. Served on a rustic wooden chopping board, it is accompanied by a ripe, juicy grilled tomato, creamy bearnaise sauce and a heap of hot, fluffy chips. A fresh salad of mixed baby leaves is a good accompaniment (£2.50). The burger is similarly tasty, chargrilled to give a satisfying smoky flavour that shows off the good quality of the meat and is served with a fresh tomato relish, lettuce, a big piece of pickled gherkin and chunky hot chips. Both the steak and the burger are distinctly on the rarer side of medium rare – worth bearing in mind.

For those with a sweet tooth, a range of nostalgic desserts should do the trick. These include an Eton mess, sherry trifle and summer pudding with sweet cream. A generous portion of the baked chocolate tart is served cold with a thin pastry crust, accompanied by vanilla ice cream. The chocolate filling is dense and rich with a high cocoa content. Alternatively, the hazelnut ice cream is fresh and flavoursome with pieces of nut adding texture. A selection of sandwiches is also available from £5.95 for the rare roast beef, horseradish and onion jam to £7.50 for the Ploughman’s board with honey roast ham, cheddar cheese or pork pie. If you’re feeling particularly peckish, add chips for £1.50.

The Drink
The extensive wine list is dominated by old world regions. The Curtains Up selection is split into Champagne and sparkling, aromatic whites, elegant cool whites, chardonnay lovers and friends, rose, warm hearted reds, smooth traditional reds and Southern Hemisphere to help you choose. With dry, soft smooth and clean flavours, the house red is a good value choice to accompany both the steak and the burger.

The majority of wines are available by the glass, starting at £3.60 for a glass of the house Lerane Terret Viognier 2008 or Lerane Grenache Merlot 2007. Bottles range from £13.90 to £23, while the Pol Roger Brut Reserve is the priciest Champagne at £49.

For beer drinkers, there’s a good selection of draughts to choose from, ranging in price from £2.90-£3.95 a pint. The list includes Sharps Cornish, Adnams Best, Wandle, Bitburger and German wheat beer Licher Weissen. Bottled ciders and beers (£3-£4.50) include the dry Savanna Cider, Sol (served with a wedge of lime), Coopers Sparkling Ale, Sierra Nevada, Leffe Blonde and Brothers Pear Cider.

The drinks menu also suggests some favourite classic spirit and mixer combinations, including Campari and soda (£4), Cockspur and ginger (£4.50) and the more unusual Godminster’s Rhubarb vodka and ginger beer (£4.80). Aperitifs include Pimms No 1 or No 6 (£4), Bloody Good Bloody Mary (£4.75), U’Luvka and Fever Tree tonic (£6.50) and Kir Royale (£7.50), while digestifs recommended include scotch and soda (£3.10) and Ferrara port (£4).

The Last Word
A Barons Court residential street has gained a sophisticated local with character and some damn fine reasons to visit – particularly for those who like to combine their theatrical entertainment with a pint and a bite to eat.
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