The Prince Albert

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163 Royal College Street,
Camden,
London,
NW1 0SG

0872 148 2115
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byjohn gough22/11/2007
The historic Prince Albert pub in Camden caters to the upper reaches of the bohemian crowd with great food, a wide selection of drinks and a lively atmosphere.

The Venue
Located a little way up Royal College Street, the Prince Albert is easily reached from Camden Town tube station on the Northern line, or Camden Road rail station. This is Camden proper – it’s close to the High Street, and the infamous Grand Union pub is close by on the corner of the road. Lit outside with twinkling fairy lights, it’s easy to find and the inside is warm and welcoming.

Downstairs is the bar area, with hard wood floors, wood panelling on the walls, big lead-lined Victorian windows and mismatched tables and chairs creating a periodic, Boho feel. Upstairs is the brand new restaurant, created from a flat that used to sit above the pub and has a slightly more refined feel, with deep chocolate browns and pale greens helping to make the restaurant more inviting. Once again, the huge lead-lined windows dominate, affording views of much of the neighbourhood. There’s a pretty, decked outside area too, with tables and chairs for eating and somewhere for smokers to escape to, and in the bar there’s a large plasma screen for football match days. It’s an often-repeated formula for gastropubs (though this is a label they’re trying to avoid) and there’s been no attempt at originality, but it feels inviting so there’s little to criticise.

The Atmosphere
The Prince Albert feels lively and buzzing, attracting a mixed crowd of bohemian Camdenites; from the young, skinny-jean brigade to the more mature customer in search of a good meal and a friendly drink. The vibe is relaxed and chatty, though the staff can be a little uncertain when explaining items on the menu or the wines on offer.

The Food
The food menu is ambitious, with top-quality ingredients combined in imaginative ways to produce a truly memorable gastronomic experience. There’s char grilled hanger steak combined with thyme and garlic mash, and grilled turbot, braised ox tail, thyme shallots, and mushroom and herb mash, among a small selection of other dishes, all priced between £10-18. With cheeses from La Fromagerie, fruit and vegetables fresh every day from New Covent Garden, and duck and poultry from Gressingham, there’s been a real focus on getting the food right and it’s a worthy addition to the limited food scene offered in Camden at the moment.

The Drink
The wine selection is certainly vaster than the food choices at The Prince Albert, with 13 white wines, 2 roses and 13 reds to choose from. Particularly worthy of note is the £13.50 bottle of Libertad Shiraz, which is full-bodied and fairly priced and would make the perfect accompaniment to many of the meaty dishes on the menu. As well as wine, there’s a choice of champagnes and cocktails, plus a selection of beers including Black Sheep and Bombadier real ales, and lagers that include unusual choices such as Tuborg, Okocim and Porretti, as well as the more predictable Carlsberg and Stella Artois. The beers are all priced below £3.50.

The Last Word
The Prince Albert is a fine addition to the upper ends of Camden’s bar and restaurant scene, with exceptional food and a wide choice of drinks. It doesn’t offer anything wildly different or new, but it offers a friendly welcome and is worth a visit.

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