Tom Aikens restaurant has evolved. Gone are the white tablecloths and neutral decorative flourishes, and in comes an edgier, rustic aesthetic more in keeping with where the London restaurant scene is going. And the food? Excellent as ever, with a new menu concept.

The Venue
Tom Aikens restaurant has undergone something of a reinvention. The tables are now stripped-back wood to complement the wooden floors, and the walls are covered in pieces of sackcloth painted black, interspersed with large walls covered in food-based prose in large, bold lettering. A metal feature light is the only real nod to glamour – that and the huge windows, which glimmer in the night. There aren’t even any crisp white napkins: they've been replaced by more pieces of sackcloth, this time in brown. Going for a more relaxed look is perhaps a bold move given Aikens' culinary reputation, but it does let the food to shine.

The Atmosphere
The staff offer service worthy of the best dining rooms. From the warm welcome from the hosts through to the service from the sommelier and waiting staff, it’s as effortless as it is efficient. They pre-empt your requests, checking if you need anything before you’ve even thought of it, and there’s an underlying friendliness that stops it from feeling too claustrophobic and intimidating. Despite the more informal surroundings, this is still fine dining so you can expect diners to be dressed smartly.

The Food
In keeping with the new look, the menu has also changed. It’s now set up to offer three different tasting menus (six courses £55, eight courses £75, ten courses £95) and an a la carte selection of two courses for £40, or three for £50. However, you can now add additional courses to your selection almost in a tapas-style way of ordering, allowing you to essentially create your own tasting menu. The food is divided into fish, meat and vegetables and you can mix and match as you like.

The roast foie gras is certainly a good place at which to start. The fat sliver of rich, meaty foie gras is well portioned, and served with thyme sabayon and smoked onions. It’s a very rich dish with bold flavours that perhaps make it a bit too much for a starter, though it’s so incredibly delicious you probably won’t care. The beetroot fondant is also excellent, arriving with a tangy goat’s curd that works well with the yellow and purple earthy beetroot. Blackberries add a tart sweetness and it’s all given a sharp, sweet edge by of a chunk of Regent’s Park honey.

From the fish selection, the roast John Dory stands out. The plump pieces of fish are incredibly delicate and light in flavour, and it’s balanced by accompaniments that don’t overpower the dish. Sweet cauliflower is covered in cumin and tempered by a rich, creamy cauliflower milk and brown butter. The Romney lamb with ewe’s cheese is rich, sweet and perfectly cooked; it works incredibly well with a sharp, salty hit of anchovies and a tang of confit garlic.

Sweets are similarly impressive. The coffee crème is a balance of strong coffee and sugar with coffee sponge, espresso syrup and coffee granules making for an impressive combination of bitter and sweet. However it’s the cheese that wins the day with a choice of aged fresh, soft white, semi-soft, blue and hard from La Cave a Fromage – although the exact varieties offered differs from day to day. Served with a choice of different chutneys in jars, as well as walnut bread and crisp breads, it’s a delicious end to the meal.

The Drink
Tom Aikens has gone the extra mile with the wine list, pasting it into hard back books about wine. To be handed an actual tome is a little strange at first but it adds a fun edge to perusing the wine. Of course, it’s nothing but the best and even the house champagne is top quality – Laurent Perrier at £12 a glass. As far as the rest goes, glasses start at just £6 a glass for the house chardonnay and the cabernet sauvignon, rising steadily up to £1600 a bottle.

The Last Word
Tom Aikens has taken a risk with the new direction of the restaurant, and it’s sure to be one that’s not to everyone’s taste. However, it’s perfectly fine to be quirky as long as you maintain the quality – and that’s certainly the case here.

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