Union Square serves up some pretty good American fare amidst an impressive setting inside The O2. It’s just a shame that the some of the prices are so excessive.

The Venue
Located right after the entrance to enter The O2, Union Square’s quite disconcertingly spongy carpet bounces you into a seductive and stylish interior that’s every bit the evocation of America’s yesteryear. Brushed woods on the floors and walls set the ranch theme, whilst snarling grizzlies and startled mongooses stare motionless from the walls, forever fixed by the taxidermist’s hand.

The more informal downstairs area plays host to fireplaces flanked by leather armchairs and bar stools stretching along a lengthy bar, whilst the slightly more sophisticated upstairs area is that little bit more suited to dining. It’s a moodily lit, atmospheric place that’s great for secluded meals, boasting yet more artefacts, images and portraits that are a great distraction should the conversation waver. Curiously, most of these pieces centre on North America’s indigenous people, perhaps to show that although this place serves up American staples, there’s little of the brashness now associated with the States – this is for those that like their America humble.

The Atmosphere
Typically of most venues here, the atmosphere at Union Square flitters between the almost maniacal bustle of an event night to the close to catatonic quietness of when The O2 is given a night off. Both types of nights offer pleasant experiences though, with the busy nights turning the venue into a vibrant place full of clinking cutlery, animated conversation and eager anticipation, and the quieter nights offering something a little more intimate.

This seems to be managed well, though the upstairs area can seem a little cold when it’s really quiet as there’s no music and little external conversation to prevent possibly drunken ramblings carrying across the restaurant. It’s a really nice place to eat though, boasting that comparatively rare quality of enabling you to completely forget that you’re dining inside one of the capital’s most infamous monstrosities. Union Square has also become known for playing host to numerous celebrities that come to The O2 to see a show or perform.

The Food
Union Square’s menu is undoubtedly an enticing one, with classic American staples interspersed with a smattering of international options such as shepherd’s pie or lobster bisque. For the best part, they’re very well constructed, displaying definite competence in the kitchen despite the odd, acceptable hiccup. The primary problem, however, is that some of the dishes are so pricey that you feel like you’re paying through the nose purely because of the venue’s convenient location – although high prices are usually the case with multi-purpose venues like The O2.

But it’s not all bad. Take the lobster bisque itself, for example – it’s a delicious starter, with a perfectly al dente, thick pasta parcel housing fresh and juicy lobster and served in the most luxurious, rich and thick bisque, and just about acceptable at £8.00. The goat’s cheese tart is priced better at £6.50, but the puff pastry is a little too flaky, the goat’s cheese not crumbly enough and the onion chutney far too sweet. The basil dressing is exquisite however, and deserves to accompany a better plate of food.

Mains are when things can get expensive. Although the New York strip is a good quality, impeccably cooked and hearty ten ounces of sirloin steak, it doesn’t quite deserve the pressure of coming with a £26 price tag. The accompanying fries are just about adequate and the tomato and mushroom that join the steak on the attractive chopping board plate are fresh and bouncy, but it does feel something of a let down when you consider the price – one should be wowed by a £26 steak and this does nothing of the sort. The lamb cutlets are, again, superbly cooked, with the tender, soft and succulent meat being incredibly tasty and complemented well by a rich mint sauce, but at £18.50 they are threatening to be a little cheeky. Sides go from decent (green beans with butter and cracked pepper - £3.50), to sublime (house salad with lettuce leaves, blood orange, beetroot and pistachios - £4.50).

Desserts aren’t particularly impressive, but certainly acceptable, with a creme brulee (£6.50) just edging the black forest gateaux (£6.50). Although it’s pretty standard, the cream is burnt immaculately for that delicious smoky flavour, and gives way to some sweet custard that flickers enticingly with vanilla seeds. The gateaux doesn’t fare quite so well and although there’s a definite richness of flavour it’s a little dry and stodgy.

The Drink
You’d expect somewhere like this to have an extensive wine list, and Union Square doesn’t disappoint – ranging from excellent and affordable house bins through to Cristal at £380 and extravagant Ports at just shy of £1,500. The house red, a Chilean merlot that comes in at a reasonable £16.50 for the bottle is a perfectly good option, with medium bodied yet very drinkable notes of plum and berries. Things rise steadily through to the more expensive options but the list is conveniently categorised, with plenty of impressive American additions including a Californian cabernet sauvignon at just £19.50.

The Last Word
Clearly able to revel in its enviable position within The O2’s cavernous interior, Union Square is certainly worth a visit if you’ve got the money.

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